Ohm. What is an ohm? How does a 2 ohm load effect an amp? How does a 1 ohm load effect an amp? Or a 4 ohm load?

The ohm load effects power output in amplifiers as well as sound quality.

Subwoofers can measure 2 ohm, 4 ohm or 1 ohm. 2 ohm, 4 ohm and 1 ohm impedance’s will make the same amplifier put out different amounts of power and can greatly affect the way your car stereo system sounds and performs.

This article discusses the various subwoofer configurations available such as single voice coil 2 ohm, single voice coil 4 ohm, dual voice coil 2 ohm, dual voice coil 4 ohm, as well as series and parallel wiring and how each will effect the measurement of ohms.

Estimated read time: 3 minutes 45 seconds.  Want to read later?

All speakers have a measurement of resistance, called impedance which is measured in ohms. Car stereo speakers are typically 4 ohm. You will find car stereo subwoofers in a variety of configurations like single voice coil 2 ohm, dual voice coil 2 ohm, single voice coil 4 ohm, and dual voice coil 4 ohm.

Dual voice coil means the subwoofer has two positives and two negatives, which give you the flexibility of wiring the subwoofer two different ways giving you two options for final impedance. These variations do not make one speaker more powerful than another despite what many consumers may think. However, the varying impedance will make a difference in what type of output an amplifier will have.

As the ohms drop, the amplifier will unleash more power, but with less control. This is an important aspect to remember. Failing to understand this concept is probably the main cause of self installed amplifiers shutting down and going into protection mode.

You will notice, when you buy an amplifier, or are looking at the specifications of an amplifier, you will typically find 2 or more ratings. One output at 4 ohms, and another output at 2 ohms. The output at 2 ohms is always higher because when the resistance is lower, you allow more output. All mono amplifiers are stable at 2 ohms, very few are stable at 1 ohm.

So what kind of speakers can we hook up to a mono amplifier? Let’s use an Alpine MRP-M500 mono amplifier as an example. This amp is rated at 300 watts at 4 ohms and 500 watts at 2 ohms. In order for us to get maximum output out this amplifier, using only one subwoofer, we would have to use either a single voice coil 2 ohm subwoofer or a dual voice coil 4 ohm subwoofer wired in parallel.

If we had two subwoofers, we would need each subwoofer to be a single voice coil 4 ohm wired in parallel to the amplifier. Or we could have two dual voice coil 2 ohm subwoofers with each woofer’s voice coil wired in series, then paralled to the amplifier.

Let’s take a look at this JL Audio 10W6 which is a Dual Voice Coil 4 ohm subwoofer as an example for the different wiring schematics on Series and Parallel:


Parallel is when you tie two positive and negative terminals together wiring them positive to positive, negative to negative, and then wire that straight into the positive and negative terminal of the amplifier. When you wire speakers in parallel, you are cutting the impedance in half. So a dual voice coil 4 ohm subwoofer wired in parallel is now measuring a 2 ohm load:

To understand Series, visualize a dual 4 ohm voice coil. You have two terminals side by side: Positive and Negative for voice coil #1 and then Positive and Negative for voice coil #2. To series this subwoofer, you would have to connect positive from voice coil #1 to the amplifier, then connect negative from voice coil #1 to the positive of voice coil #2, and then connect negative from voice coil #2 to the amplifier. This doubles the impedance. If we do this to a dual voice coil 4 ohm subwoofer, the impedance will be 8 ohms:

The problem that many people run into, is running an amplifier with the incorrect impedance. Let’s say we were to use that same dual voice coil 4 ohm subwoofer with a 2 channel amp bridged. When you bridge a 2 channel amp, you hook up left positive and right negative. You might assume you are simply wiring it as a mono amp, which in a sense you are. The important difference that is often overlooked is when you bridge an amplifier, the amp sees half the impedance at the terminal which means that 2 channel amp would see only 1 ohm. This is extremely low for a 2 channel amplifier, it would be unleashing a lot of more power than it was designed to along with very little control which would in turn cause the amplifier to heat up very quickly and shut down going into protection mode. Over time this will damage the amplifier.

For a 2 channel amp to work properly bridged, it needs to see an 8 or 4 ohm load at the terminal, this will ensure the amplifier will work properly and not overheat and shut down.

If you own an amp and you’re in the market for subwoofers, make sure you know what final impedance your amp needs to see. And vice versa, if you own subs and you’re in the market for an amp, know what impedance your subs are so that you purchase an amplifier that will give you optimum performance. It helps to talk to your local independent car stereo shop, but if there aren’t any in your area, just email me and I’ll make a recommendation for you. If you enjoyed reading this post, please spread the love. Tweet it, like it, stumble it, or use any other social sharing weapon of choice. Thanks for reading!

Recommended Posts


  1. Hi Annie, been out the game for a while, but getting back in because my son is becoming very interested and I am hooking him a car up for when he turns 16. So I have 2 JL Audio W7 8″ subs in a ported box to recommended spec. I am curious as to how much amp and what brand would be best for these subs. Willing to spend around 500 or so on the amp. I have an opportunity for an old school Orion Class D Monoblock for a $120. Is that enough power for the JL’s or should I go fora JL amp and if so, what size? Thanks a lot and keep it thumping!

    • As far as the Orion amp, all depends on the model and rated output. I would suggest googling the model # to see what you’re working with and see if it has enough power. For a new amp, I would go with something in the 1000 watt RMS range that has a regulated power supply based on the funky 3 ohm impedance of those subs. The Alpine PDXM12 will push out 1200 watts RMS whether you give it 1.5 ohms or 4 ohms. It’s probably more than you’re looking to spend, but based on the final 1.5 ohm impedance you’ll have with two of those subs, you’re going to want to get an amp that has the regulated power supply. FYI most mono amps are only 2 ohm stable.

  2. Hi Annie!

    Just been reading your thread online and need a bit of help!

    I have 2 15inch L5 Kicker squared subwoofers DVC 4ohm and a Pioneer GM-D9601 AMP 2400 watts whch says its stable on 1ohm.


    Will these 2 subs and amp run good together as im guessing i should wire the subs together in parallel down to 1omh aond conect to one of the channels of the Amp?

    Thanks for your help in adviance!

    • Hi Erskine, I think that might be too little power for both subs. Looking at the specs of the amp it puts out 1200 watts RMS at 1 ohm or 800 watts RMS at 2 ohm. I think your subs are like 800 or 1000 watts RMS each if I remember correctly.

  3. Im looking at this amp JL Audio JX400/4D for my door speakers but it doesn’t have any onboard fuses so I’m not sure if I could put a 40 A mini ANL fuse/fuse holder in the power wire or if it could still fry the amp this way. Thanks and great article

    • Yeah, I don’t know why those amps don’t have on board fuses, but the owner’s manual will give you the recommended fuse size (I think it is 40 amp off the top of my head). Normally when we’re doing those JL XD amps we’re also usually doing a matching sub amp so we’ll do a main power wire with master fuse up front and then we’ll do a fused distribution block in the back right before it goes into each amp – just to be on the safe side.

  4. What’s sup Annie I have two kicker 1200 watts dual 4ohm subs can you please tell me what size wire I need and most of all what kind of amp I need and how I would need to wire them up

    • Usually the 1200 watt is a peak rating and RMS is 600 so I would recommend an Alpine PDXM12 – it’s got a regulated power supply so it will put out 1200 watts RMS with a 2, 3 or 4 ohm load. You could wire the subs in parallel then series for a final 4 ohm load.

  5. Hello Annie,
    My car got a component speakers ( JBL GTO609C ) installed in each front door, and now i bought a Pioneer head unit (Pioneer AppRadio 4 SPH-DA120)
    Pioneer says: Do not use 1W to 3W speakers for this unit.
    JBL says : Nominal impedance: 3 ohm and on the spec sheet ( Three-ohm voice coils help compensate for added resistance in thin-gauge factory speaker wire. Compatible with all 4 ohm-rated amplifiers and head units)

    Am I ok here ?

    Link to JBL spec sheet: http://static.jbl.com/tl_files/catalog//jbl/car/Specsheets/GTO/9-series/Specification%20Sheet%20-%20GTO%209%20Series%20Speakers%20(English).pdf

    Link to Pioneer Spec sheet: http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/StaticFiles/Manuals/Car/SPH-DA120_InstallationManual070714.pdf

    Thanks Heaps!

    • That’s interesting, I haven’t had any issues with Pioneer and JBL. We sell the GX series which are even lower 2.3 ohms. I know Kenwood really won’t support, but I usually play the JBL GX602’s all day long on the App Radio 4 in our showroom and haven’t had any issues.

  6. I have a 1800watt audiopipe class d 1 ohm stable I have it wired to 2 l7 12s at 1 ohm keeps getting hot and cutting off should be enough power right?

    • This is exactly why I don’t like running anything at 1 ohm – it’s unstable. That’s what happens. The amp lets out a ton of power (without a ton of control) and it eventually heats up and shuts itself to protect itself from overheating anymore. I would suggest a different configuration of equipment so that your final load at the amp is 2 ohm which is much more stable. If you want to stick with the equipment you already have, you could use one sub at wired at 2 ohms for a more stable performance.

  7. Hi Annie, I have read through a lot of these comments and everyone seems to be asking about (2) subs and an amplifier. My question is about 1 sub and a mono amp. I recently purchased a Soundstream R3 15″ and a Soundstream TN1.1200D mono amp. What would be the best way to run them? Thanks

    • Hi Chris,
      Well for the better sound quality I would run it in series for a 4 ohm load (looks like that’s a dual 2 ohm subwoofer). The amp will put out 660 watts RMS, but it will be much cleaner and tighter than if we ran it in parallel for a 1 ohm load. Since those are really our only two wiring options I personally would go with series and 4 ohm, but if you just want it loud and don’t care as much about sound quality, Soundstream “says” that amp is 1 ohm stable so you could potentially run it in parallel at 1 ohm, but I don’t really recommend that. I hope that helps!

  8. Hi Annie, so I have one Power Acoustik Gothic 10″ sub DVC 1000rms at 2 ohms. It’s wired parallel dropping it to 1 ohm, but since you said running 1 ohm would be unstable should I get an amp that pushes 1000rms at 2 ohms, or what would you recommend?

    • Hi Daniel – I would wire it in series for a final 4 ohm load and get a mono amp that has a regulated power supply such as an Alpine PDXM12 which will put out 1200 watts RMS regardless of whether or you have a 2, 3 or 4 ohm load. Hope that helps!

      • Hi again, thanks for the quick response! I guess my next question would be since the sub is rated 1000rms at 2 ohms, and your recommendation is to series wire it to 4 ohms and use the alpine amp, would 1000rms be ok at 4 ohms or could I go higher in RMS since the sub is rated to handle 1000rms at 2 ohms?

      • The impedance (ohms) is just a measurement of resistance unrelated to the power the sub can handle, that has more to do with the amplifier response. Regardless of whether you wire the sub in series for 4 ohms or parallel down to 1 ohm the sub will always handle 1000 watts RMS. If you purchased an amp with an UNregulated power supply it would be important to pay attention to the RMS rating on the AMP based on the impedance, but as I said 1 ohm is an unstable load so even if you find an amp that puts out 1000 RMS at 1 ohm load, it will probably not do so for very long and will not be clean and tight in response. So look for a regulated amplifier that puts out 1000 watts RMS regardless of impedance such as the Alpine I recommended. Hope that makes sense to you.

  9. I have 2 JL 10w6 and I had them both running on one Rockford t800/1 amp and I just purchased a JL 12w7 and a JL HD1200/1 amp. How do I need to wire these to run all three subs off of this amp? Thank you!

    • You shouldn’t. The HD 1200/1 is really only sufficient power for the single 12W7 only. You would want to get another HD 1200/1 for the W6’s if you really wanted to keep the two subs too (so that they are all sufficiently powered).

  10. Annie I have a question I’m going to be purchasing (2) 10″ Shallow mount Pioneer subs rated @ 300W RMS they are single voice coils @ 4ohms now the subs will be ran in parallel making them 2ohms to the amp. Now I’m looking at 2 pioneer amps the GM-D8601 which makes 500W @ 2ohms stable and the GM-D9601 which makes 800W @ 2ohms.

    My question is since my subs are wired in parallel will the watts be cut in half to each sub? Should I opt D8601 or the D9601?

    • Hi Vic, you could really go with either amp since you need an amp that will push about 600 watts RMS total (at 2 ohms). To err on the side of caution I would say go with the more powerful one and adjust the gains accordingly. When you’re on the cusp like that you’re usually better off going with a little more power than you need vs too little power.

  11. I have a GTX500 amplifier that is rated 350 watts of RMS at an impedance of 4 ohms, 500 watts at 2 ohms and 770 watts at peak power. I am looking for a sub in a sealed box and I would rather the amplifier run cooler, safer, last longer than put out max power. Should I be looking for a 4ohm subwoofer?

    • Hi Sergio – yes, if you want to run the amp cooler and have cleaner output look for a 4 ohm subwoofer.

  12. Hi Annie,

    I just recently purchased one 12 inch sub from Rockford fosgate (p3s-1×12) and had it installed with the Rockford prime R600x5, 5 channel amp. I am amping 4 of my interior speakers with the final channel for the sub. My question to you is from the specs below, is my sub being underpowered? It is not hitting as hard as I thought it would .. Do you think the specs align? Also, if not, what other amp would you suggest to allow for my sub to hit harder with also amping the 4 interior speakers?

    P3S-1×12 sub:
    Woofer Series: Punch P3S (P3SD2-12)
    Nominal Impedance: Internally wired to create a 1-Ohm amplifier load
    Power Handling: 400 Watts RMS
    Sealed truck box style enclosure
    Constructed with 5/8″ MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard)
    10 AWG input terminals
    1-Ohm wired impedance
    Computer optimized design
    Covered with high density carpet
    Wired exclusively with Rockford Fosgate speaker cable
    Included trim ring ready to accept optional stamped mesh grille insert
    Dimensions: 13.5 x 27.4 x D1 5.3 – D2 3.3 (in) / 34.29 x 69.59 x D1 13.46 – D2 8.38 (cm)

    AMP – Rockford Prime R600x5:
    Rockford Fosgate Prime R600X5 600 Watt RMS 5-Channel Class AB/D Car Amplifier
    Remote Bass Knob Included
    600 Watts RMS
    RCA and High level Input with 2/4/5 Channel Select
    12dB/octave Butterworth crossover
    Over current protection
    Short circuit protection
    Muted turn on
    On Board Punch EQ Control
    Separate Front, Rear and Sub Gain Control
    Real time output and power supply thermal sensing
    Cast aluminum heatsink
    4 Gauge power/ground connectors
    MOSFET power supply

    CEA-2006 Compliant
    Number of Channels: 5
    Rated Power
    (RMS Continuous Power): 50 Watts x 4 + 200 Watts x 1 @ 4-Ohm
    75 Watt x 4 + 300 Watts x 1 @ 2-Ohm
    Total Power
    (Sum of Rated Power): 600 Watts RMS
    Dynamic Power
    (PVC/PowerCube® Measurement):
    Bridgeable: Yes
    Efficiency (average): Front/Rear Channels: TBA% @ 4-Ohm
    TBA% @ 2-Ohm
    Sub Channel: TBA% @ 4-Ohm
    TBA% @ 2-Ohm
    Crossover Controls: Channels 1/2/3/4: High-Pass/Low-Pass 50-250Hz
    Sub Channel: Low-Pass variable 50Hz – 250Hz
    Tone Controls: Channel 1/2/3/4: 0dB/+6dB/+12dB @ 45Hz
    Sub Channel: Variable 0dB to +12dB @ 45Hz
    Sub Channel: 0°/180° Phase Control
    Signal Input: Low Level: 3 Pair RCA
    Signal Output:
    Power Input Connector: Screw Terminal
    Power Wire Gauge: 4 AWG
    Speaker Wire Gauge: 8 AWG
    Heat Sink Type: Extruded
    Speaker Output Connector: Screw Terminal
    Cooling: Convection
    Remote Controls: Remote Punch Level Control
    Visual Indicators: Power
    Circuit Topology Class: Class-A/B (ch 1/2/3/4)
    Class-D (sub)
    Frequency Response: 20Hz – 20kHz +/-1dB
    Shipping Weight: 9.5 Lbs (4.30 Kg.)

    Thanks so much!


    • Hi Joe, that appears to be a dual 2 ohm subwoofer so my guess is you have it wired in series for a 4 ohm load which then yes you would be under powering the sub as the amp would only produce 200 watts with a 4 ohm load. You would be better off with a dual 4 ohm version wired in parallel for 2 ohms. If you wired it to 1 ohm, then you’re probably going to toast the amp as it does not say it is 1 ohm stable. My favorite 5 channel is the Alpine PDXV9. Excellent sound quality and output is 100 x 4 to the interior speakers plus 500 x 1 (rated at 2 or 4 ohms as it is a regulated power supply so will put out the same power either way).

  13. Hello. I have purchased a Kenwood KAC-9106D 2000 Watts Monoblock Class D amp for my two Alpine SWR-12D2 3000W 12″ Dual 2 ohm Type-R subwoofers in a ported box. What would be the best way to wire these?

    • Series the voice coils then parallel the subs or parallel the voice coils then series the subs – either way you’ll end up with 2 ohms at the amp.

  14. Hi Annie. I have a Rockford Fosgate p312d4 sub with a 500 watt rms peak and I was looking to get a new amp for it. The one I was given is only good for 300 watt rms so it keeps overheating and cutting out. I only have one side of the sub attached to the amp right now and I was wondering if I attach the two with a parallel connection to the amp would the ohms be at 2 or 4? And if it were 2ohms would the output watts of the sub still be at 500 rms with the decrease of ohms? I want to make sure I get the right amp to go with the sub once I parallel connect the two sides of the sub properly. Thank you!!!

    • Hi Chris, you need an amp that puts out 500 watts RMS at 2 ohm. You shouldn’t ever wire up half the sub, that’s not good for the sub. Consider the Alpine MRV-M500. Wire the sub’s voice coil’s in parallel (positive to positive, negative to negative). Regardless of whether you wire it in series or parallel the subwoofer is capable of handling 500 watts RMS. It’s the rating on the amp you want to look out for. You want one that puts out 500 watts RMS @ 2 ohms.

  15. Hey Annie,

    Thanks for all the information on your site, its way helpful! Have a question about a build I am looking to do. Want to use a stock HU that only has front door speakers and will be replacing the stock speakers with aftermarket and adding a sub.

    Looking at the Polk PAD5000.5 amp with the intent of bridging the F/R channels to output to the door speakers for 200W @ 4 Ohm and using the sub channel to power the sub. In the manual for the amp, it rates the sub channel as 500W @ 1 Ohm. Am I better off getting a 2 Ohm DVC sub that I wire in parallel, or running a sub at 2 Ohm (I believe this amp will output 400W on the sub channel @ 2 Ohm). What are your thoughts? Any better options you can suggest for my situation? Thanks in advance!

    • Hey Aaron, 2 ohm will be much cleaner. Never been a fan of running subs off an amp down to 1 ohm. It’s a very unstable load.

  16. I just want to make sure I have my subs and amp matched up correctly. I have 2 Kicker Comprt 10″ DVC at 2 ohm 400watts RMS on the Alpine MRX-M110 at 2 ohm 1100 watts RMS. Wired in parallel series. Is this the right setup and will I be getting enough power from my amp?

    • If those are dual 2 ohm subs you’re talking about then yes you’re fine.

  17. Hello. I had a custome box built ported tuned to 37 that will house (2) dual Sundown sd 3 10″ D4 500w RMS. because i’m having the system installed professionally my optiones are JL Audio or Alpine. subs are wired 4 ohm. would the MRX-M110 do the trick. classic rock with some new country. thanks-

    • Hi Tommy – you’re going to want an amp with a regulated power supply because with two dual 4 ohm subs, your only wiring configuration options will be:

      -parallel subs voice coils then parallel subs for a final 1 ohm load (not recommended, very unstable)
      -parallel subs voice coils then series subs for a final 4 ohm load
      -series subs voice coils then parallel subs for a final 4 ohm load

      So you would need an amp that puts out 1000 RMS at 4 ohms and the MRX-M110 will not do that. It will put out 1100 watts RMS at 2 ohm or I think about 550 at 4 ohm. I’d go with the PDX-M12 from Alpine over JL Audio’s HD 750/1.

  18. I have 2 1200 watt max 12″ pyle subwoofers, i do not know the RMS i do know that matters alot more than watts advertised. im debating on getting a Belva BB2000 and Belva BB3000, http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_65811_Belva-BB2000D.html

    Im looking more at the BB3000 but dont want to have too much power and blow my subs, but i dont want to have to little power either, i also have a 1999 Pontiac Grand Prix and i believe i need a 4 gauge wiring kit but read somewhere that 2 gauge may be the way to go?

    • Hi Tanner – it’s easier to blow subs when you have too little power and you end up clipping the amp causing distortion which is usually what kills speakers. So I’d rather have too much than too little power. Find the RMS of those subs and the impedance and determine the exact RMS power you will need and at what impedance. That is how you can then shop for the right amp. 4 gauge is good for 1000 watts RMS.

  19. Hello! I had a question, I have a HIFONICS ZRX1200.1D amp it powers 400 x 1 at 4 ohms, 600 x 1 at 2 ohms and 1200 x 1 at 1 ohm. I’ve been looking into getting some Polk audio db1240 single voice coil subwoofers, according to specs they have a max 360 rms each. I’m still learning all of this stuff, but will my amp supply enough power to these subs?

    • Hi Greg – they appear to be 360 RMS each. Your amp will put out 600 RMS at 2 ohms. If you have two of those subs you would have a 2 ohm load. You could definietly give them more power, but you’re right within the range so it shouldn’t hurt them. Ideally you’d want an amp that put out about 750 RMS at 2 ohms.

  20. what type of amp should I use for 2 terminator tne212d 1200 watts 400 rms max combined one terminal on box

  21. Hi, I’m having trouble wiring my door speakers. I have 4 Pioneer 5×7/6×8 2 way speakers rated at 50 watts rms and 150 peak. They are 4 ohms each. I want to wire them to run at 2 ohms front and rear on a 4channel audioban amp. What’s the best way to wire them to get the 2 ohm load, I also have a 4 channel Sony amp that I’m running for the rear, the other amp runs the front.
    Please help!!!

    • Hey John – just don’t do it that way, it’s not the right way to do it. If you REALLY wanted to get down to 2 ohms, the only okay way to do that (so you still have a proper left and right audio signal) is to parallel your front left and rear left and then parallel your front right and rear right and then you could run that to the front left and right channels of your 4 channel amp. But it’s stupid, just run it the right way off your 4 channel. You’ll get better sound quality that way and better control over the speakers having them run off their own individual channel.

  22. Hi Annie

    My brother kicked me down 2 old school handmade zapco amps. Only got 1/2 way through a Craigslist install when I got fed up and finished myself.

    The mids/highs are running off a 360 watt everything is fine there.

    My brother had 3 JL 10w3v2 in a custom box however the speakers were 12 years old and ripped to shreds at the rubber/foam.

    The flakes list installer told me to buy 3 fosgste p3’s dual 2 ohm.

    Ran a standard parallel down to 1.33 ohms. Way too much bass. After 15 minutes of head pounding the amp
    Got so hot I could literally fry eggs on it and needless to say shut off.

    Hopefully she will turn back on.

    Research from reading many post on your kick ass site suggests I should series then parallel, is my assumption correct?

    Rear facing in 2014 grand Cherokee srt in a sealed box, Amps Facing behind bench seats with no airspace.

    4 gauge wire to Battery and grounded properly

    LC8 to retain controls of factory nav screen.

    Thanks for your help.


  23. Hey Annie,

    I just purchased the new 5th gen Alpine Type R 10″ dual voice coil at 2ohms. I also have a Pioneer GM-D9601 amp. Before I purchased this sub I had the older model at 4ohm wired in parallel for a 2ohm connection. If I just hook up my new sub without running it in parallel do I have to adjust the gain settings? I have everything set correctly with a multi meter to make sure I am not clipping. If I end up running at 1ohm would I need to change the gain settings? I would think yes and reduce the gain a lot since I will be running more output. Also I have a 6ga wire from the battery (both + / – ) to the inline fuses then to an 8ga wire that goes to my amp. Would running in 1 ohm cause problems due to the 8 gauge wire or can I get away with it? It has been running great now for years while running it at 2ohms. My old sub just recently got rips/tears in the surround as I have had it for 8 years. I think I got great use out of it.

    Any answers would be great. Thanks!

    • Hey Randy,
      If you plan to run that amp at 1 ohm, definitely up the power gauge to 4 from the battery back and the ground would also need to be upgraded to 4 gauge. If you run it in series for a 4 ohm load you could probably leave the 8 gauge set up. Either way you should re-tune because the efficiency will be totally different on the new sub regardless of whether your run it in series or parallel (from your comment I gather you purchased the dual 2 ohm version of the new Type R).

  24. Hi Annie, i will be buying 2 12″ 8000 watt subwoofers which are 2ohm, I was thinking of getting a 15000 watt 1ohm stable amp, will that be a good choice? and what would be the best way to connect it?

    • Sorry buddy, I need to know what specific brand and model numbers you’re looking at to really answer that.

  25. Hi annie, I would like to know how would be the best way to wire my subs. I bought two 10′ 4Ohm orion subs 3000 watts a piece along with a 5000 watt orion amplifier. Can you please tell me the best way to wire them for best performance. I also have two 10″ beyma, two 8″, four 6″, two horns and four bullet tweeters. Two 800 watt 2 channel orion amplifier and a 500watt for the horns and tweeters.

    • Hey Mark,
      I replied earlier, not sure if you saw it. Well if you just want straight up output it looks like that amp is designed to handle 1 ohm, I don’t know for how long, but you could wire them in parallel, then parallel again for a final 1 ohm load. Otherwise that amp wouldn’t be enough power at 4 ohms (only other wiring option). Ideally you return those subs for the 2 ohm version and then you could wire in parallel then series for a final 2 ohm load and have exactly the right RMS power from the amp. I’m not sure on your other products, I don’t really do anything with horns or bullet tweeters, so I’m not sure what kind of power they need and what kind of impedance they are. You should probably contact the people you bought it from for the best suggestion, it’s just outside what we normally sell and install at our shop. Sorry!

  26. Hi Annie

    I always thought “If X- amp is 2000 watts, then woofer A- 200w, B-500w, C-800watts, were all cool to just slap together and you’d even have room to add D as long as it didn’t exceed 500 more watts… simple addition! So after I just spent a ton of money on 2 JL Audio 12w6v3’s and a JL Audio HD1200/1 amp and I find out all these formulas and Greek to me jargon. Someone even told me that I would start a fire with the wrong combination. Please let me know how I should hook these up or IF I should… I’m kinda stuck with those 3 components now and must make them get along. I am a fan of deep bass so how should I wire them?

    • Hey Deatrick,
      Luckily you bought good quality equipment. The HD1200/1 is what we call a regulated power supply. So that amp will put out 1200 watts RMS regardless of whether it sees a 1.5 – 4 ohm load. So you can wire your subs voice coils in parallel for a 2 ohm load each, then series the woofers thereafter for a final 4 ohm load and your amp will put out 1200 watts RMS and it will all be good. Just don’t wire in parallel and then parallel again for a 1 ohm load, the amp won’t be able to handle that.

  27. Hi Annie, it is me again, Jazzy.

    I have a speaker/amp question.

    So I just acquired 3 dual 4ohm voice coil PG Xenon x10d4 subs. I want to run them on my Alpine MRP-M1000. Wired in series/parallel I get a final impedance of 2.7ohms.

    They are rated at 450rms/800peak each. Will the amp be stable at that impedance and what will the amp see closest? What will it run them at, 2ohm or 4ohm? Also will they be under-powered if the amp sees them at 2ohm and work efficiently putting out close to the 1000rms @ 2ohms or will it really see the subs as a 3ohm load and not perform efficiently?

    Please help, I want to make this work if possible.

    Thanks much,

  28. Hi I have two 12″ Pioneer Champion Series Pro DVC 4 ohm subs that can handle 600w rms eaxh and I am wondering if they would match up to a Sound Storm Lab model number AE230 2 channel 3000w amplifier…it says it can push 480 RMS watts per channel put how can I wire both sub’s without bridging the amp so I can give them more power? Or would I benefit more from bridging? Any help is greatly appreciated!!!

    • Hey Brett, that’s really the wrong amp for those subs. That amp says it will do 480 x 2 at 4 ohms, it doesn’t say it will do it at 2 ohms and your only wiring options with those subs are to wire in parallel (2 ohms each) or series (8 ohms each). Do yourself a favor and buy a quality amp for those quality subs. Something like this Alpine PDXM12 which has a regulated power supply meaning it will put out 1200 watts RMS whether you give it 1.5 – 4 ohms. I would get that Alpine amp and wire your subs voice coils in parallel then series each sub for a final 4 ohm load.

  29. Hey I have a set of MTX terminators got them from here- http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_21675_MTX-TNP212D2.html
    But the tna 251 didnt seem to work well so I got a Cobalt orion 300.2- http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17982_Orion-Cobalt-CO3002.html
    it sounded good for awhile but now it almost seems like the amp wont push them like it used to and im hearing distortion from my subs when i turn them up so i can hear the bass. I think i need a new amp, any suggestions?

    • Hopefully you didn’t damage your subs. Looks like your enclosure contains two single voice coil 4 ohm subs wired in parallel for a final 2 ohm load and each sub handles 200 watts RMS. So ideally you need a mono amp that puts out 400 watts RMS at 2 ohm and the TNA251 was only rated for 250 watts RMS. However the amp you replaced it with is not any better, in fact it’s worse off. You got a two channel that’s only 160 x 1 RMS when bridged to a 4 ohm load. Sounds like you’ve got it bridged with a 2 ohm load which it’s not going to handle and it’s probably going to damage the amp and or subs. So get rid of that and get yourself a mono amp that puts out around 400 watts RMS at 2 ohm like an Alpine MRV-M500. Hope that helps!

  30. Hi Anne,
    got another installation question.

    So I have that pioneer EQ-6000 that I installed with my Kenwood kdc-158u head unit. The HU has one set of RCA outs and the EQ has one set of RCA in and 3 outs for front rear and subwoofer. I want to get one of the HU’s you recommended or something similar with 4volt pre-outs but still want to run the EQ with my system as it gives that extra bump for the sub output. The only HU’s I’ve seen that has 4volt or higher has 3 RCA outs on them, front, rear, and sub.

    How would I run the RCA’s to the EQ using all 3 outputs going into the one input on the EQ. If I can’t run them together like that, which one should I use to go into the EQ and get the full use of the RCA’s as I am running the 2 amps that will use all 3 of the outputs on the EQ, ie… alpine 4 channel with front and rear, and the sub out to the alpine mrp-m1000.

    Is it overkill to use the EQ or will the HU provide enough with a 4volt pre-out to tailor the sound as the pre-outs will be a higher voltage than the current HU I am running that only has a 2.5 volt pre-out?

    I like the ease of tailoring the sound output using the EQ rather than fighting through the HU menu settings, PLEASE HELP MY FRIEND!!!

    PS: again, YOU ROCK!!!


    • Hey Jazzy,
      Yeah, I don’t think the EQ is necessary, especially if you go with something like that Sony MEX-GS610BT I mentioned earlier. If you have an iPhone or Android you can download Sony’s Remote App and control a 9 Band EQ with time alignment right from the phone. Like what you see here: Sony App Remote
      Time alignment adjustment in Sony app

      • Ok, thanks for the info. I will keep a lookout for one and hope too get it for a fairly reasonable price. Not a super big sony fan, but that HU sounds like it is awesome!

        Take care.

  31. Hi Annie,
    i have two Pionner subs Ts-w256DVC rated at 800W max / 350W nom. I am powering them with Alpine monoblock Mrp-m500 at 4 ohms. I have red article above and some of your answers. The subs are wired in parallel (+ to + and – to -) and then in series with amplifier, so the math is from 4 ohms each to 2 ohms each and then in series with amp so the amplifier sees 4 ohm load. I think this is only solution for me. So the amp produces 350 w of rms at 4 ohm, right? So if i have two subs wired like i have described, does it mean that each of them gets 150 w of rms, or 300 w of rms each? If subs are rated at 800 w peak power, isn t the rms power 1/3 of peak power (around 266 w of rms by my calculation) If i am not correct i am pretty underpowering my subs, but they play actually very well.

    Thank you,


    • Hi Darko,
      Yeah you are definitely giving them less power than they can handle. They’re getting 350 watts combined RMS from your Alpine amp the way you have wired up and they can handle twice that. However, if you like the way it sounds and it’s loud enough for you leave it be. The only reason you’d really need to upgrade is if you wanted that extra output or you found it just wasn’t as loud as you liked. As long as you’re not distorting the subs and you don’t have the gains jacked all the way up you’ll be fine. In my last car I was running two JL Audio TW3’s with a 600 watt mono amp (at 2 ohm), but the amp only put out 400 watts RMS at 4 ohm. Well each sub could handle 400 RMS alone, but it was tuned well, plenty loud and sounded good so I never put a more powerful amp on them even though they could have handled it.

  32. Hi Annie!
    I have 2 12 JL Audio W3 V2D6, I used to run them in parallel to a IB-2900c Interefire bridged for a 2 ohm put out. one 1 of them blew out, so I stored them for a while. what would be the best way to wire these but just in a set of 2? is that even an option since they start a 6 ohms? Paralleling them would bring em to 3 ohms which is an odd number.

    • Hi Jay,
      Wait, what? If one of your subs is blown, you can’t use it. Even if it’s just one of the voice coils of your subs, if one is shot, the sub is shot. So if you’re down to one sub, you can parallel its dual voice coils for a final 2 ohm load and use a good mono amp that puts out 600 watts RMS at 2 ohms. FYI, if you were running them parallel and parallel again (thinking that’s what you mean because we don’t bridge subs, we bridge 2 channel amps) you were technically running those subs at 1 ohm which is really sloppy sounding and a very unstable load for the amp and is most likely what fried out on of the subs.

  33. Hello Annie,

    this is Jazzy again. So I bought this Pioneer EQ-6000 to boost my signal to my amps for components and subs, and did a test run. It made those rfp-1212’s rumble.

    However, my question or concern now is the type of RCA cables that I am running and if they make a difference in signal flow from the HU to the amps, and if so what brand would you recommend and the length? I want to get the cleanest signal and strongest signal that I can to my amps.

    I am going to upgrade my stock component speakers and upgrade the amp as well but also am looking at installing a Kenwood KDC-158U. is that a fairly decent HU? I know it is on the cheaper side but I am not rich either. I do feel I have enough knowledge to make what I have sound pretty darn good as is my question concerning the RCA cables and signal flow. I know current flow is a must for best amp performance and am sure the same applies for signal flow.

    Your expertise and opinion is welcomed for what I am asking.


    • Hey Jazzy – it’s also important to have a good pre-amp connection and that head unit doesn’t have it. So, yes RCA quality does make a difference and length – keep it to the length you need, no need to coil up extra cable. I like the Blue Stinger 6000 series, they won’t break the bank, but they’re not a cheap, crappy RCA either, better shielding, but not extravagant.

      And get yourself a head unit with a 4 or 5 volt pre-amp. I like the Sony MEX-GS610BT, a lot of bang for your buck and awesome sound quality. If thats gonna break the bank consider the Kenwood KDC-X399. I hope that helps!

  34. Okay nice I appriciate it. Thank you very much! You’ve been very helpful.

    • Glad I could help 🙂

  35. Hi, I have a 15 inch kicker L7 sub, I really need to find the right amp and this car audio shop I went to gave me the run around. I just need to find the right amp and how to hook it up my self. Please help?

    • Sure. Which one? Dual voice coil 2 ohm? Dual voice coil 4 ohm?

      • Dual voice coil 2 ohm.

      • I have a Sony XM GS 100 hooked up to it, just cause I had the amp laying around but it goes into protection mode after a while….

      • Yeah, it will do that because I’m sure you’ve got it wired in parallel down to a 1 ohm load – did I guess right? That’s okay. What I would recommend is wiring the sub in series for a 4 ohm load. Check out Rockford Fosgate’s handy woofer wiring wizard to see what I’m talking about.

        Most amps cannot handle 1 ohm, it’s very little resistance. So the amp opens up and lets out a lot of power, but with very little control. Eventually it heats up and shuts itself or just burns out and never turns back on.

        The solution is to find an amp with a regulated power supply that puts out the same raw power regardless of impedance. For the sub you have I would recommend the Alpine PDX-M12. It will put out 1200 watts RMS whether you give it a 2 ohm, 3 ohm or 4 ohm load. With 1 ohm being so unstable, I think this is your best bet. This is a rock solid amp, very tight, compact and incredibly efficient. Packs 1200 watts RMS of real power and that’s exactly what your sub calls for. Just wire your sub in series for a safe 4 ohm impedance and enjoy!

  36. I have 2 12″ JL W3V2 Dual 4ohm subs and a JL 500/1. I am looking at the set up and trying to figure out the ohms they had set up and if this was the optimum set up because after almost 10 years I finally blew one of my subs. They had each sub wired in series then going to the box connector then they had my positive wires connected together on the box connectors and negatives together going into 1 positive connection of one of the amp speaker groups and then the negative going to the other amp speaker group. Please advise what ohm this actually was running at and if this was the optimal set up.


    • Hi Howard,
      Kind of confused on your description, but it sounds like they had each sub set up in series (acting as an 8 ohm sub each) and then parallel for final 4 ohm load. The JL Audio slash series amplifiers have a regulated power supply. That amp will put out 500 watts RMS whether you have a 1.5 – 4 ohm load. So it doesn’t really matter with that particular amp as long as you’re in that range. If you’re just using one sub now I would wire it in parallel for a 2 ohm load. Wouldn’t do you much good at 8 ohm.

  37. Hi Annie,
    I am puzzled here. I a 98 mercury mountaineer with the big three upgrage on stock alternator and battery. I am running a alpine cda-9843 HU and an alpine mrp-m1000d mono amp rated at 600rms @ 4ohm and 1000rms @ 2ohm. I also have a pair of old school RF 12s dual 4ohm wired series/parallel to the amp. series inside the box to box terminals and then parallel to amp outside the box. The issue I have is the amp was cutting off after playing music short periods of time at 50% volume and when HU was turned off and back on the subs would play fine. Finally one day while driving, playing my music on a trip home the subs stopped playing. after cutting off the car and restarting it the amp did not produce sound to the subs except if the bass was turned up on the HU or the volume was turned up higher than normal resulting in sound but very distorted. subs will not play at low volume at all. I hooked the subs to my 5 channel alpine amps sub output and the subs played fine. Did I somehow fry my amp and why would it not handle the subs at 4ohms when they are rated at 400rms/800peak? I am running 1/0ga throughout the system to Dblocks and 4ga to the mono amp from the Dblock. Also, I have a capacitor in before the amp and fused blocks at the battery for power to amp and the big three, and fused block at the digital readout before the capacitor with 300amp fuses. The ground is 4ga however grounded to a bolt storage area tiedown hook sanded to metal then to the capacitor, then to the amp. what could I have done wrong that has caused my amp to crash and possibly burn. I am lost and am looking at shelling out another couple hundred for a new amp if I have fried this one. I am running quality 1/0ga wire with all connection points sanded to metal and tightly secured.

    sorry for the run-on paragraph.

    I truly need some advice and info. Also what would be a better amp for those subs? They hit extremely hard at the 4ohms but I really would like to run them at 2ohms to truly see what the are capable of.


    • Hi Jazzy – that is odd. I’ve known that amp to be a bit of a work horse, very surprising considering only running it at a 4 ohm load. The initial symptoms you described sound like a bad ground. In your set up I would make sure that amps and capacitors are all grounded to the same point in the vehicle, but each have their own separate ground cable. In other words don’t daisy chain the ground which is how I think you’d described it, but not positive. And bolt storage tie down hook – like towards the bottom body of the car or the trunk lid/rear shelf area? Hopefully towards the body of the car. Check your capacitor too. I’ve seen cheap capacitors burn out really nice amplifiers. I had one customer burn out his $800 Audison amp with a cheap Amazon special $50 capacitor.

      You could always invest in an amp with a regulated power supply. Alpine’s PDX-M12 will put out 1200 watts RMS whether you give it a 2, 3 or 4 ohm load. Based on the dual 4 ohm configuration I think that’s your best bet. You can’t wire those subs down to 2 ohm, only option would be 1 or 4 ohm load. Technically you could leave wired to 4 ohm and find a 2 channel bridgeable amp that will put out 800 watts RMS when bridged to a 4 ohm load, but none come to mind. Or buy a regulated power supply amp that will put out the power you need even at 4 ohms. Hope that helps!

      • Thank you Annie for your reply. After reading more blogs and doing some research and brainstorming, it was the ground wire to the amp that was giving me the problem. I also read that the amp has a current protector built in which is probably what saved this monster of an amp. I rechecked all connections and tightened and grounded the amp to the floor under the back seat and WOW! I dodged that bullet! I really was not looking to shell out another couple notes for a new amp. I am very impressed with this amp as it really puts out clean solid power. I may invest down the line in another one and run each sub at 2ohms to see what these puppies are really capable of.

        Do you think I should run these in a sealed box, ported or bandpass? I like the tight punchy bass, but also would like a little rumble as well. I am currently running them in a sealed dual 12inch box. I got the box from a garage sale for $2 over 2 years ago and just now getting to use it. I am not sure if the specs. of the box are properly tuned or made for these specific subs, but they sound amazing! I adjusted the amp settings and have the subwoofer volume all the way down on my HU as well as the bass and it still performs above my expectations. I am mainly wanting to see what these guys do at 2ohms. I think these are power hungry monsters and can handle whatever you throw at them.

        What do you think?

        PS: you are AWESOME AND VERY KNOWLEDGABLE IN THE CAR AUDIO AREA!!! Thank you for all your help, Thumbs Up!!!

      • Thanks man, I could use the props after the serious verbal lashing I got from a customer today over how bad their SiriusXM sounds (I will be writing a post soon about why SiriusXM sounds like arse, why you shouldn’t listen to it and why it’s not my fault is sounds like butt).

        Glad to hear your amp is still okay!

        As far as boxes go, I personally prefer sealed. I like the tighter, punchier tone – However, if you build a ported box to manufacturer spec/recommendation, you can build a clean sounding ported box that is both tight and punchy and provides the low rumble. Not a fan of bandpass, that’s hard to get right. You can look up manufacturer box recommendations in the owner’s manual of the subs usually (can usually find online if you don’t have).

  38. Hey I have 3 subs they are 1800 watt 900 watt RMs they 4 ohm, I don’t understand this at all and I need help can someone suggest the best kind of amp to run the 3? Help please

    • Check out the woofer wiring wizard. You’re only wiring options are really to end up with a 1.34 ohm load. So if your subs are TRULY 900 watts RMS that would mean you need a 2700 Watt RMS mono amplifier that is 1 ohm stable. I don’t think you’ll find that so instead you may need to use 3 identical amps that can put out 900 watts RMS at 4 ohm.

  39. Hi Annie, sorry if you have answered this question. I have one Rockford 600w 4 channel pushing 4 door speakers and 1 Zapco mono 1100.1 amp pushing one JL 13.5 W6 v2 sub. Stereo is Kenwood X998. The problem is that the Zapco amp just heats up and switch off in 15min when the HU volume reach 60% and turn up again after 5 min. The car is a VW polo with original alternator and a normal battery. Is it because the electric power is little for this set up or the sub is not wired parallel? What if the sub is wired correctly? Thanks.

    • Huh – W6 is a dual voice coil 4 ohm so you probably have it wired in parallel for 2 ohm which a safe load for any mono amp. I would recommend checking your ground and also making sure you’re using the proper gauge wire. If you’re starving the amp for power with too thin wire that can cause the same thing. But so can a bad ground. If I recall correctly those Zapco amps can be pretty power hungry and not always that efficient. I might look into a more efficient amplifier like an Alpine PDX-M12 if it continues to be an issue.

  40. Hi Annie! Thank you so much for your time spent with us, the “noobs” in car audio..
    I would like to know if this setup is OK(kind of) in terms of specifications… I have a 350w dual voice coil sub and a 2-ch amplifier 2 x 150w at 4 ohm (bridgeable1 x 300wRms at 4ohms)…

    How should I wire the setup? Thank you so much

    • Hi Andrei,
      Happy to help sweetie, can you tell me what your sub is? Dual voice coil 2 ohm? Dual voice coil 4 ohm? That will help me recommend the best way to set it up.

  41. hello i have a 4 ohm svc rocksford fosgate 8 inch sub but my amp is 2 ohms, would this work?what problems would i run into?

    • Did you even read the post? Your amp is not only 2 ohms. Amplifier companies like to rate their amps at 2 ohms because that’s the most commonly used load for subwoofer amps and also when they can put out the most power with stability.

      Most amplifiers have an unregulated power supply meaning it can put out a certain amount of power which varies depending one what impedance or ohm load the amp is given by your subwoofer. Your subwoofer is 4 ohms. Your amp may be 2 ohm stable which is the lowest impedance it can handle safely. It can handle higher loads like 4 ohms, but won’t put out as much power at 4 ohms as it can at 2 ohms. Most amps have ratings that say something like 500 watts RMS @ 2 ohms and 300 watts RMS @ 4 ohms. It’s the same amp, two different power outputs at two different impedance loads.

  42. Hello Annie. I just purchase a Hifonics BRX2000.1D Brutus Mono Amplifier and for the sub woofers I have two 2 ohm DVC Kicker L7 12″. I going to Series Wire too a final of 2ohms. The amp is rated at Power 700W@4ohms /1400W@2ohms/ 2000W@1ohms.

    So i will be pushing 700 watts per Sub woofer which is 50 watts under RMS its said 750 watt RMS and 1500 watt Max.

    I guess the mono amps don’t see half the load? Only what your final impedance are set too?

    I like the clean bass sound sealed box. So by me missing that extra 50 watt will i really notice any differents any by doing so does it extend the life of the subwoofer maybe?

    • Hi Tony,
      You’re right in the ball park as far as RMS power handling goes, I don’t think you’ll miss the extra 50 watts RMS per sub that they can handle. You are correct – mono amps don’t see the half load, only true 2-channel amps when bridged will see 1/2 the load. A mono amp will see whatever the final impedance is (even if they give you two terminals – they just do that for convenience if you have a box with two terminals and want to wire them separately).

  43. What is a good sight for car audio

    • Umm – this one? LOL not sure what you’re looking for exactly. Honestly I’m in this industry and sell all this stuff in my own shop, but I still use Crutchfield from time to time to check out product specs all in one place. I also check out CE Outlook and Mobile Electronics Magazine to stay current on the latest new products and innovations. If you’re looking to read about or learn about car audio wiring and installation, ohms law, box building, that kind of thing – check out the12volt.com.

  44. Annie,

    Hope to get your input on wiring up a subwoofer for a friend. She has a single Kicker S12L7 and a Kenwood KAC-9104d amplifier. Amp claims to be 1 ohm stable @900 RMS, so if I were to parallel the L7, that would put it at a 1 ohm load correct? Or would that cut the load to 1/2 ohm connecting it to the mono amp? Alternatively, it seems to be rated for 500 RMS @ 4 ohms.

    What would you suggest?

    Thanks for your input!


    • Hi Jeremiah,
      Crutchfield does show that sub as a dual 2 ohm woofer, so if you ran it parallel it would be running at 1 ohm. So technically the Kenwood amp is 1 ohm stable. Of all amps I’ve come across listed as 1 ohm stable, Kenwood’s are the only ones I’ve encountered that have been able to really perform with a 1 ohm load on a consistent basis. It will be loud, but it won’t be tight or clean, but it will work. And based on the RMS of the sub (750) I think you should actually run it at 1 ohm. You could run it in series at 4 ohm, but you’d be under powering it at that point. Hope that helps!

  45. Hi Annie
    I have (2) MM840 8″SVC 250rms each subwoofers, running them of a TG-D4000.1 Targa amplifier. The amp is rated @1ohm-550rms. @2ohm-320rms and @4ohm-210rms. Is this amp strong enough to drive these subs, and how do i wire the subs to the amplifier.

    • Hi Rodney, I’d buy a better amplifier. If your subs are rated at 250 watts RMS a piece and they’re single voice coil 4 ohm, you want an amp that will put out 500 watts RMS @ 2 ohms. You would be under powering the subs with that amp and risk blowing them (under powering causes distortion which blows speakers). Consider the Alpine MRV-M500. You could wire your subs in parallel (Just tie both positives to the positive terminal of the amp and both negatives to the negative terminal of the amp) which would give you a final 2 ohm load.

  46. Hi I have a Rockford fosgate t1500 amp that when I start listening to something that has a lot of bass after a few minutes it will start cutting in and out. It doesn’t go into protection mode but rather thermal mode I’m guessing because it is getting too hot. I have 2 Rockford fosgate t2d4 12″ subs hooked up to it and run parallel, negative to negative and positive to positive. Should I hook them up in series instead? I know I need to upgrade my alternator and possibly another battery because I’m drawing a lot of power since I also have another amp running all 4 of my interior speakers. I’d appreciate any help trying to figure this out thank you for your time.

    • Hi Zack, sounds like you’re running the amp at 1 ohm and yeah I’m sure that amp is heating up really fast. That’s a very unstable load. I would wire it in series for a final 4 ohm load and see how it behaves, it should sound a lot cleaner and tighter too. It definitely won’t be as loud though and you should check to see how much power your amp will put out at 4 ohms as you also don’t want to under power your subs and risk blowing them. In this case, with this exact equipment, you may find the sweet spot is with one subwoofer connected at a 2ohm load. That might give you the right mix of output, function and sound quality.

  47. Hi Annie,

    How would you hook this kit up?

    Head unit: Alpine iDA-X100
    Front spk: Fosgate Component T1652-S
    Rear spk: Fosgate T1693C
    Subwoofer: Alpine SWR-1222D
    Amplifier: Alpine MRV-F345 (for front component)
    Amplifier: Alpine MRP-M450 (for subwoofer)


  48. Hello. I have read all of your post and all the comments. I’m just at a loss here. I have a Pioneer TS-W309D4 12″ 1400 Watt (400 watt RMS) Car Subwoofer + E12S Sealed Sub Box Enclosure. I also have been looking at a Pioneer GM-5500T 820 watt(400 watt RMS) 2-Channel Car Audio Class A/B Power Amplifier Amp. Is this set up right? If I bridge the subs the amp is going to go to 1ohm? what do you recommend?

    • Hi James. You can use that combo but you need to wire the sub in series (would see 4 ohm per channel). Wired in parallel the amp would not be stable (would be seeing 1 ohm per channel), although I think there are better options from other brands like Alpine or Kenwood. You just need a mono amp around 400 watts and both brands have options around $200. I think that amp would be too little power running at 4 ohms per channel (also known as running it at 8 ohms bridged).

  49. Hi Annie,
    I have a 2006 Chevrolet silverado 2500 crew cab, and the only speakers I can find that will fit under the seat or anywhere out of the way are two Rockford Fosgate R2SD2-10′s, I would like to know your opinion on my situation, if you have some other speakers you think would be better and how many or what kind of amp/amps I should get and what would be the best way. Just want to make sure I get the right set up. Thanks.

  50. I have 2 alpine type r 15s in a custom ported box, I have them on an alpine mrp m1000 right now wich sounds fairly decent but I think they are being starved. What would be the best amp to make them hit as hard as possible ??

    • Hi Chad,
      They be starved for power from your car. Those subs are rated around 750 watts RMS so they’re definitely matched up nicely with each amp. Chances are your battery/alternator isn’t supplying enough current to the amps. I would recommend you definitely run 0 gauge for power and ground (if not already doing so) and you’d want to buy a high performance deep cycle battery and high output alternator that can support another 200 amps over what the OEM alternator does.

  51. Annie, I would like to first start off by saying that I really enjoy your website and your tutorial videos, they’re great! But I still have a question that needs to be addressed.

    I currently am running a Kenwood KAC-7205 Amplifer and two Kenwood KFC-W12PS Subwoofers. My amplifier is rated 500 watts RMS x 1 bridged @ 4ohms, and each Subwoofer is 4 ohms. I currently have them wired in parallel. I understand the difference between series and parallel, and according to your video, since my amp is a 2 channel amp, my subs should be wired in series (which makes sense, because my amp does get hot). But my question is, since my amp is 500 watts RMS x 1 @ 4 ohms when bridged, shouldn’t it play stable at 2 ohms, rather than 1 ohm? Or does having my subs wired in parallel drop the ohm level two 2 ohms, and then the load is cut in half again to 1 ohm because it’s bridged?

  52. Hello my name is Juan and I have a question I just got one single 12 in kicker cvx and a 1200 watts amp and I’m trying to find out what would be best for me I don’t know if to make it to 2 ohm or a 4 ohm and what would be best for my system

    • Hi Juan,
      I can’t answer your question unless you tell me which version sub you have (dual 2 ohm? dual 4 ohm?) and what model amp you have (2 channel? mono?). Sorry!

  53. hi im thinking of getting 2 polk audio subs mm1240 425w rms and powering it with alpine mrx-m100 amp 1000w rms x 1 chan @2 ohms not sure what ohms on subs to get

    • Hi Scott, I don’t carry polk, but if you wanted two subs connected to that amp for a 2 ohm load you’d have to buy either single voice coil 4 ohm (and wire subs in parallel) or dual 2 ohm voice coil (wire voice coils in series, then parallel subs).

  54. Hi Annie,
    I have a 2006 Chevrolet silverado 2500 crew cab, and the only speakers I can find that will fit under the seat or anywhere out of the way are two Rockford Fosgate R2SD2-10’s, I would like to know your opinion on my situation, if you have some other speakers you think would be better and how many or what kind of amp/amps I should get and what would be the best way. Just want to make sure I get the right set up. Thanks.

    • Hi Taylor,
      There are a lot of options, you just will definitely have to build your own enclosure for them. For space saving subs, I like JL Audio 8W3’s and 13TW5’s. If you don’t feel like building anything, JL has this stealth box. Other nice options are Alpine’s SWRT series (available in 10″ or 12″).

      As far as what to use, it really depends on what kind of sound you’re going for. I do like amps by JL Audio, Alpine or Kenwood Excelon. Almost always I recommend mono amps (depends on which subs, what else you are hooking up for interior speakers). I hope that helps!

  55. Hey Annie, I have a pioneer gm5400t 2 channel 760W amp and two MTX shallow 10″ subs(FPR10-02). I am trying to figure out how to connect my subs to my amp but I have no idea of how ohms and amps work. Do you think it would be a problem If I were to just hook the subs up normally,(not bridged)? I dont wanna mess these subs up.

    • Hi Sharieff, yes you can wire them in stereo to each respective left and right channel. Other wise if you want to wire it in mono (subs will play a mixed stereo signal and play the same tones) you can wire the subs in series then bridge at the amp.

  56. I’m new to this just bought an amp hooked it up but have no idea what speakers and what subs to buy, here are the specs of the amp 3180W Max, 5.1 Surround Sound 6-Channel Car Amplifier
    Amplifier has 2 front channels, 2 rear channels, 1 center channel, and 1 subwoofer channel.
    RMS Power Rating:
    4 ohms: (Front: 125W x 2 ch.) + (Center: 75W x 1 ch.) + (Rear: 75W x 2) + (Sub Channel: 300W x 1 ch.)
    2 ohms: (Front: 200W x 2 ch.) + (Center: 130W x 1 ch.) + (Rear: 130W x 2) + (Sub Channel: 500W x 1 ch.)
    1 ohm (Note: only the sub channel, the 6th channel, is stable at 1 ohm): 800W x 1 ch.
    Max Power Output: 3180 watts @ 2 ohms stereo for channels 1-5 and 1 ohm for channel 6.

    It’s in my ford ranger, I wanna raise some hell, what’ll sound best with that? I got 2000$ saved for the speakers and subs wouldn’t mind spending less than that tho, any help is appreciated!

    • Hi Dexter,
      I get the impression that you want rock concert loud in your truck, which is pretty cool. You didn’t mention a head unit however, don’t know if you already have one, but you’ll definitely need a good one. I would recommend Morel Tempo series or Virtus series for speakers and a couple of 10″ subs like JL Audio 10W3’s (the 4 ohm versions so the amp will see 2 ohms when wired in parallel) in custom built sealed boxes (follow manufacturer’s recommendations for cubic volume). I would run 4 gauge wire for power and ground. I don’t normally do a center channel because you typically don’t have the option to do a true center channel in most vehicle setups (would need a source unit that supports true 5.1 and would need to listen to media that supports 5.1 like true DVD Audio discs).

  57. Thank you very much Annie, you’re advice is greatly appreciated!! Ok so I had another quick question. Like I said I’m new to this and I was reading earlier comments/replys and I read something about if I’m going to keep my factory radio I should use an audio processor. If I’m just adding 1 then eventually another sub as I previously mentioned do you think this applys to me? Also, would I also need a capacitor? I am installing one 10w6v2d4 wired parallel in a sealed box with a JL Slash 500/1 amp into a 2011 GMC Sierra Z71 Crew Cab. What do you think? Thanks again Annie*

    • Hi Wally,
      I recommend a processor when you’re looking to basically do an entirely aftermarket audio system while keeping the OEM head unit (changing out all speakers, adding a 4 channel amp, subwoofer and sub amp). For simply adding an amp and sub to a stock system, I usually recommend using an adjustable hi to lo convertor (especially if you have a stock amplified system like Bose) and always a dedicated subwoofer control level knob (JL’s RBC1 will plug right into your amp and give you a separate sub level adjustment independent of what you adjust on your head unit).

      The Slash amps can consume a lot of power, but they’re regulated so they’ll pretty much only take what they can get. A cap will help, but depending on how loud you like it, it may not be necessary. The real fix is upgrading to a higher output alternator. I would try it first and see how it goes.

  58. Hi Annie,

    Great advice! I just purchased a JL 10W6V2D4 for my 2011 GMC Sierra. What kind of amp would you recommend specifically to power the single and yet has enough juice to power the 2nd sub when I eventually buy it? How would you wire for single sub configuration and how would you wire for both to result in great sound/thump and longevity. And lastly, what size box do you recommend? Ported or not? Thank you so very much for your advice, this is my first system ever!!

    • Hi Wally,
      For sound quality I prefer sealed. It’s tighter, punchier and has a deeper bass response. For an amp that will work with the one sub you have and a second sub later, I recommend the JL Audio HD1200. It’s 1200 watts RMS whether you give it 1.5 ohms or 4 ohms. It’s more than enough power for one, so just adjust your gains accordingly until you add the second one. You can leave the sub wired in parallel. But when you add the second one, series the two subs for a final 4 ohm load. Also make sure to follow JL’s recommendations for enclosure size found in the owner’s guide.

  59. hi Annie im new to this audio side but im just wondering what would be a good amp to run two 10inch pioneer champion series each sub is 1200 wats max each with 175 rms each coil and they are already parallel wired just dont know much about it and how many ohms to do it on

    • Hi Lorenzo,
      So Pioneer’s dual voice coil Champion’s are dual 4 ohm. And if they are wired in parallel they are running at 2 ohms each. So with these two subs, you can really only come up with two final impedance options. Either 4 ohms (series the subs) or 1 ohm (parallel). 1 ohm is not really stable, so I’d recommend series them. Amps that will put out around 700 watts RMS at 4 ohms would be something like an MRXM110 from Alpine or if you wanted to run at 1 ohm, I would recommend the Kenwood KAC-9105D.

  60. Hello Annie, I have a kenwood kac8015D 1000 watt mono amp. And I’m looking into getting an alpine type r 12 inch swr1243D. Is this a good match? Or what sub do you recommend for my amp???

    • Hi Aj,
      The alpine type R will work (dual 4 ohm). Other nice options are JL Audio W3s (two single voice coil 4 ohm) or one W6.

  61. hi i have a txp3000 mono block class d amplifier 1ohm stable max power @ 1 ohms 1x3000w rms power @ 1ohms 1x1500w how many sub can i run and and what wat should the subs be

    • Hi,
      It looks like the amp will put out abut 900 watts RMS (true every day reality power) at 2 ohms (stable impedance). So you could do a bunch of different things. You just need to match your impedance and your power handling. Your options would be this:

      1 sub rated at 900 watts RMS
      -with either a single 2 ohm voice coil OR dual 4 ohm voice coil (wired in parallel for final 2 ohm load)

      2 subs rated at 450 watts RMS each
      -with either a single 4 ohm voice coil (you would wire the subs in parallel for a final 2 ohm load) OR Dual 2 ohm voice coils (wired in series, then parallel for final 2 ohm load)

  62. I have a 10w6 and a 500/1 mono amp. I don’t know what type of enclosure I should get and how big is the box to give a perfect sound in my car. Also, how should I wire the sub? Series or parallel? And I am most likely going to wire them in parallel since it’s a 4 ohm sub. Please leave me a comment. Thanks!

    • Hi Eric,
      I would wire it in parallel, definitely. As far as box goes. If you want to build it to JL’s recommendations, use the owner’s guide found here. However, if you want the best sounding box possible for your vehicle, use Bass Box Pro software and design one yourself (allows you to select tuning frequency, chart various outputs depending on style and variation of enclosure and more). That’s what we use in the shop and our custom made boxes (even the plain jane square ones) sound way better than the enclosures JL offers with their subs. We also use tru pan which is lighter than MDF. Happy box building!

  63. Hi Annie, I have 2 kicker L712’s 750rms/1500rms 2 ohm dvc, and a kicker zxs1500.1 mono 2 ohm stable. Whats the best way to wire the speakers for maximum output without making the amp unstable?

    • Hi Terry,
      That’s a nice easy one. Wire the subs voice coils in series , so each sub has a 4 ohm impedance then you can parallel the two subs for a final 2 ohm load.

  64. Hi Annie,
    If I only ever plan to run one subwoofer with a monoblock amp (JL Audio XD600/1) what would be the difference between the 2 and 4 Ohm JL Audio w3 subs and which one should I get?


    • Hi Gavin,
      I would definitely buy the 4 ohm version. Even though JL says 500 watts RMS on the W3, if you open the install guide or click on their specifications/power range, it will show 500 is the “danger zone”. The happy point is around 300 watts RMS. At 4 ohms, the XD will put out a very clean 400 watts RMS. Also, if you ever decided to add a second W3 4 ohm, you could still use the same amp. Having two W3’s 4 ohm wired in parallel would bring the impedance down to 2 ohms and you’d get 600 RMS out of the amp which would be perfect for two W3’s, IF you ever decided to add another one. So definitely, the 4 ohm version. And if you buy it through this link, I’ll get credit for the sale 🙂

      P.S. always buy JL direct or through your local authorized retailer. They are very serious about their distribution and really control it. If you see it online for anything less than what is advertised on JL’s site, it’s illegitimate (i.e. stolen, re-furbished, used, missing serial #’s and absolutely no warranty whatsoever). I’ve had a lot of customers get burned by shady deals.

  65. Hey Annie,
    I have two Rockford Fosgate P3 DVC 2ohm 600RMS 1200max and a P1000-1 Fosgate amp. Would I be correct in saying that if I run both voice coils in parallel for one sub the final impedance would be 1ohm? And if I do that for both and use both A&B speaker hook ups then I would be splitting the 1ohm power rating equally between the two subs? So the rated 1000 watts would be 500 and 500 respectively between the two? If this isn’t correct can you guide me through hooking them up so that the final impedance will be 1ohm? Thanks so much in advance!

    • Hi Bragas, don’t do that, you’d be running the whole set up at .5 ohm which might play for 30 seconds before the amp heats up and shuts down. Only because the Rockford is really a mono amp despite it’s deceiving A & B channel hookups. They just do that to make wire running easier/cleaner when you are paralleling speakers. Your best bet is to wire the subs in series for a final 4 ohm load per sub, then wire them up to their respective terminals on the amp. The amp will still see this as parallel and run at 2 ohms which is a stable impedance. It will be slightly underpowered. Rockford lists they’re dynamic power output around 800 watts RMS despite the specification shown of 500 watts RMS @ 2 ohm.

      To really run it at 1 ohm, you would need the dual 4 ohm versions, wired in parallel, then paralleled at the amp.

  66. Hi Annie,
    I have 1 12″ kicker L7 (750 rms/1500)(1 ohm or 4 ohm), and Hifonics Brutus BRZ2100.1D. I wired it at 4 ohms(700 RMS), but i think it’s underpowered, i was wondering if i wire it at 1 ohms(2100 RMS)? Will it be fine or will it be too much? 2100 RMS at 14.4 volts, in my car i’ve got 13.5v, so is it still 2100 RMS i get or less?
    What is the best way to power my sub?
    Thank you very much!

    • Hi Sergej,
      What kind of enclosure is the sub in? I would rather see you ever so slightly under power the sub than to risk overpowering it by almost 3 times what it needs. If you’re getting quite the output you were looking for, I’d say:
      -Make sure it’s in the manufacturer’s recommended enclosure
      -Ported will give you more output at certain frequencies
      -Where’s your signal coming from? Stock head unit? Aftermarket? What kind of preout voltage?

  67. i currently am stuck with my kenwood x500-1 along with 4 gauge wiring due to me subs getting blown out i had a dual 12′ mtx setup they were great starting subs got body flex and all that they were rated at about 450 rms where the x500-1 gets about 550-650 watts probably was the issues its funny because the x500-1 is so tiny. anyways i was woundering if anyone one had suggestions on what i should through in with my kenwood x500-1 it gets about 500-600 watts rms at 2 ohms. sub info and box info would be best for my buck !

    • Hi Andrew,
      Your amp will put out about 500 watts RMS at 2 ohms, so yes, I’m sure that’s why you blew your subs. Severely underpowered them. SO if you wanted one sub, and you didn’t want to spend a lot on it, I’d say go for a Pioneer Champion Series 12″ and build a ported box to manufacturer’s recommendation (assuming you want the most output). No matter what you do, make sure you tune it right. Distortion kills speakers. Good luck! – Annie

  68. Hi Annie, I have a 1999 Jeep Wrangler and wanted to put a little bit of bass in the rear cargo area. Preferably in some type of box. A buddy of mine gave me a new Alpine MRX-M50 amp. the specs says 500W RMS 2 ohms and 300W RMS 4 ohms. What kind of subs would this amp run and what would be some good not to expensive subs for this amp. Thank you, Dwight

  69. Hey. I am slightly new to the Car Audio world and I am interested in getting a 1500 RMS sub with a 3000 RMS amp so I can eventually get a second and wire them parallel when I get more money. I was just curious as to what brands (preferably off-brand because I do not mind) would be best for the money to choose from? Thanks alot. =)

    • Hi Jacob,
      I can appreciate being new to car audio, but the 1st thing you want to learn is that quality still needs to be considered even when you’re looking at quantity. What’s the point of having a 3000 watt RMS amp if it distorts at a lesser volume than a 1100 watt RMS amp? (Distortion kills speakers) It’s not all about the numbers. Things like total harmonic distortion, signal to noise ratio and fuse amp ratings are tell tale signs of the quality of power your amp is actually capable of producing.

      If you’re looking for quality high output on a budget I’d say check out Pioneer’s Champion Series subs (Pro’s). Aim to buy the dual 2 ohm versions, build a ported box to manufacturer’s spec for optimum output and performance and buy yourself an Alpine MRXM2400 for a real amp that can produce 1500 watts RMS at 4 ohms or 2400 watts RMS at 2 ohms.

      On a budget? Start with one sub. To really do the one sub justice on a budget, you’d have to buy the dual 4 ohm version, wire it in parallel and hook the one Pioneer champion up to something like a Kenwood KAC9105D.

  70. Hey annie,
    I have a 2 12″ kicker comp enclosure made by kicker set for 2 ohms.It has a 600w peak and 300w rms. Should i get a multi channel or mono amp and what would be some recommended amps preferably cheap (300$ max)? Heres a link and thanks again 🙂 http://www.visions.ca/(X(1)S(finqmi553docos3usradnd45))/Catalogue/Category/Details.aspx?categoryId=30&productId=6139&sku=10DC122&AspxAutoDetectCookieSupport=1

    • Hi Kris,
      I found this on that same website. It’s last years model and discontinued so that’s probably why it’s such a good deal. But it was the one of the top selling $200 car audio amps in America for a long time. Current options that would work would be Alpine MRXM55, JL JX500 or a Kenwood KAC-8105D. All in the $200 – $250 range, good quality amps that put out 500 watts RMS at 2 ohms (it’s better to have more power than you need than too little power). Hope that helps!

  71. what are the best wires for a dual Kicker CompVR 07CVR152 15-Inch 2-Ohm DVC setup? also what kind of ampage would i need for something like this. Sorry im new and people seem to have good answers here.

    • Hi Austin,
      If you only have one sub, you would have been better off buying the dual 4 ohm version. You should wire this sub in series for a 4 ohm load (1 ohm would be too unstable) and find yourself a mono amp that puts out 500 watts RMS at 4 Ohms. A nice option that won’t break the bank is Kenwood’s KAC-9105D. I would use a 4 gauge wire kit for that amp. Enjoy!

  72. Hi Annie,
    I am fairly new to in car audio but i recently purchased a used Rainbow ipaul dm2000 mono amp here in the UK for £135.

    Later on, I found a pair of used Rainbow hammer 12″ subwoofers again used and already in a single sealed box for £220 from another person.

    My question is what is the best way to get all this set up by the local audio shop in order to get the most output whilst also remaining stable.

    I have also been offered a line driver for £30, how important is it to have this?

    Also, would you suggest a ported enclosure as opposed to a sealed enclosure to house these woofers?

    And finally is there any better single 15″ woofers you can recommend so I can get the most output from the 1000w amp?

    Many thanks in advance,

    • Hi,
      Judging by the specs listed on Rainbow’s website, that amp is only capable of pushing 1000 watts RMS at 1 ohm and I doubt it will manage to do that for more than 8 months without burning up (just my experience with all “1 ohm stable” amps). It also doesn’t sound very good running at 1 ohm. But the good news is it appears to push out around 750 watts at 2 ohm and Rainbow lists those subs as being dual 2 ohm voice coil. Each sub’s voice coils should be wired in series to produce a 4 ohm load per woofer, then you can parallel the two subs for a final 2 ohm load.

      A line driver is only helpful when the signal going into the amp is weak (i.e. low voltage head unit or line out from stock head unit too weak of a signal). Have them put it in if they feel the signal from whatever you’re using (stock head or aftermarket) is too weak going into the amp.

      I’m not a fan of 15″‘s. They are not really popular where we’re located mainly for practical reasons, they really don’t fit into a lot of things! For tight punchy bass keep it sealed, for high output at select frequencies (typically 40 – 50 hertz) go ported. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for optimal sound quality either way you go.

  73. i have a gm7200m mono block 800w amp and a pair of Infinity Reference 1252W 300rms subs in a Chevy Camaro Poly Trunk Sub Box in a 2011 camaro with a line out converter. what is the best way to hook up the subs at 2 ohms or 4 ohms.

    • Hi Tony,
      From what I can find, it appears those subs are dual 4 ohm voice coils. And your amp will handle a range of 2-4 ohms final impedance. So the best thing to do is to is wire each sub’s voice coil in series, then parallel the subs for a final 4 ohm load. Unfortunately, you couldn’t wire the whole set up down to 2 ohms (unless you just used ONE sub, then you could just parallel one sub, but then the amp would be putting out way more power than your sub needs). If using a line out converter, check whether or not there is a stock subwoofer. If there is, you must get your signal for the converter from the stock subwoofer. Good luck!

  74. Which 10inch subs (JL Audio) would you recommend for a 2 sub configuration using the JL Audio HD900/5 amp?


    • Hi Juan,
      Definitely the W3. Don’t let their “500 watt” power handling fool you. If you click on the general specs you’ll see it’s sweet spot is around 250 watts RMS. Because the HD has a regulated power supply (RIPS technology), it doesn’t matter if you get the 4 ohm version and wire them in parallel or the 2 ohm version and wire it in series. You’ll get 500 watts RMS between 1.5-4 ohms.

      Always buy JL from an authorized retailer. If there aren’t any near you, buy online from JL Audio direct. They will have the closest authorized dealer with product in stock ship and fulfill the order for you. Nice amp, enjoy your set up!

  75. Hey, I have two kicker l7 15″s. They are dual voice coil 4 ohms. 1000w and 2000max. I was wondering what kind of amp I could get for these two please

    • Hi Erik,
      I don’t think you’re going to be able to use one amp simply because you purchased the dual 4 ohm voice coil version. If you were to wire both of those to one amp (would have to be a mono based on the power needs), you can only either wire the subs series, then parallel which would end up in a final 4 ohm load or parallel, parallel which would end up in a highly unstable 1 ohm load.

      That kind of stinks because as I’ve said before to other readers, it’s very difficult to properly tune two amps. Check out my last comment on 4 gauge, 2 gauge, 8 gauge, 0 gauge… for more details why.

      So what I think you’re going to have to do is buy two mono amps rated around 1000 watts RMS each and you’ll wire each sub in parallel to each amp. Which two amps? There’s a few options out there from a couple great companies. JL would be the JX1000/1D which is incredibly compact and efficient. Its footprint is about the size of a notebook and it’s about $450. From Alpine would be the MRX-M110. I recommend buying direct from the manufacturer or your local dealer to make sure you’re getting A-Stock legitimate product. Plus, you’ll need a pro to help you tune it properly, so hopefully the JL or Alpine dealer you buy from can help you with the install. And by pro, I mean an installer who knows what an Oscilloscope is and how to use it with a multimeter to tune two identical amps and two identical subs. Good luck!

      P.S. If you traded them for the Dual 2 ohm version, you can wire THOSE in series, then parallel for a final 2 ohm load and buy Kicker’s ZX2500.1 to push both of them.

  76. RE Audio SEX12D4 is the subwoofer I am looking to buy but am not sure which amp i should choose Boss CX2500D running the sub at 4ohm or Power Acoustik CPT1-2000 again pushing 670rms @4ohms orHifonics HFi1000D running 750rms@2ohms…Can you please tell me which amp would be my best bet keeping in mind i have a 2002 mazda protege ,I dont want to do any changes to my battery or alternator or their wiring …even info about which wiring kit i use and the subwoofer box i will really appreciate your help …I am a student and this has been my dream.:)

    • Hi Navdeep,
      I’m not familiar with RE audio and I don’t particularly care for Boss, Power Acoustik or Hifonics, but I can tell you a couple options for efficient amps that would power that RE sub. Something like a Kenwood X500-1, a JL XD600/1 or an Alpine MRXM55. All of these amps produce around 500 – 600 watts RMS at 2 ohms and are fairly efficient, drawing at an absolute PEAK 60 amps. The others you mentioned are in the 75 amp range. I would go with a 4 gauge kit like this one. As far as enclosure goes, here is a link to the owner’s guide which gives you enclosure recommendations. For sealed, looks like you want a 1.0 cubic box. Sealed will give you tight, punchy bass. Ported will give you more output at certain frequencies. For best performance, build to spec as shown in the owner’s guide.

  77. i have a question my amp puts out 1000 watts at any where between 1.5 and 4 ohms so what would the diffrence be if i ran a lower ohm load

    • Hi Cory,
      Great question! Your amp has a regulated power supply meaning it puts out the same amount of power regardless of whether it sees 1.5 – 4 ohms. MOST amplifiers on the market are unregulated and thus the power output varies with resistance. You will get the same sound quality and output with your amp whether you wire it up to a 2 ohm sub or a 4 ohm sub.

  78. I have 2 jl 13w6s and a jl 1000/1 v2 I was wodering how to wire to 2 ohm load and sealed or not? I was thinking duel ported 2 sf each maybe? And If there hooked up how many watts would each 1 be pushing in rms each? Alpine head unit 86**?

    • Hi Andy,
      Nice equipment you got there! Yeah, unfortunately, you can’t wire those down to a final 2 ohm load. But technically you could still use that amp to power both as the 1000/1v2 has a regulated power supply and puts out 1000 watts RMS regardless of whether you give it a 2 ohm load or 4 ohm load. And I’ve always found the slash series amps to be slightly underrated as far as the true RMS output they actually produce. The W6’s want 500 – 750 watts RMS a piece, so you can power them both with the one amp if you wire them correctly.

      The W6’s are dual 4 ohm subs. If you wire them in parallel (which is normally how they come), your sub has a 2 ohm load. If you wanted to power both W6’s with that amp, you would have to wire the subs in series, then parallel. This would result in a final 4 ohm load. You cannot wire them in parallel, then parallel again as that would result in a 1 ohm load which is too unstable.

      As far as enclosure goes, follow JL’s recommendations found here. Build it to their suggestion. Sealed for tight, punchy, chest pounding bass. Ported for loud, reverberating, brain rattling bass.

  79. I just bought a kicker cvr 12 dual 4ohm. I have a zx750.1 amp and I was wondering if
    The amp is too much for that sub? Maybe I will put 2 cvrs later

    • Hi Jose,
      More power is always better than too little, so you should be fine. As with any set up, just make sure you hear no distortion even at peak volumes. If you decided to do two CVR’s at a later date, you would need the dual 2 ohm version in order to get to a final 2 ohm load.

  80. I am looking at a kicker l7 I have them in a truck so its a small space. I have the box in and everything I have a JBL amp idk what model Should I get a 2 ohm or a 4 ohm because im putting 2 speakers in which would be better?

    • Hi TJ,
      I need more details. Like which JBL amp? My guess is it’s a mono amp. If it’s a mono, you want to get the dual 2 ohm L7’s (wire each sub series, then parallel for a final 2 ohm load). To power the L7’s it needs to put out 1500 watts RMS at a 2 ohm load.

      If it’s a 2 channel JBL amp, I doubt it would have enough power for 2 L7’s (would have to put out 1500 watts RMS bridged to a 4 ohm load). If by chance that’s what you had, you’d want to get the dual 4 ohm version (wire in series, then parallel for a final 4 ohm load).
      Hope that helps!

  81. hi i watched your blog on what ohms ment and found it realy easy to under stand ive been trying to figure it out for a while now and all it took was a quick 5 min vid cheers. i was hoping you could give me some advice on what type of box i should use in my wagon looking at running 1 12 inch L7 any suggestions.

    • Hi Goliath,
      I”m glad you found the video helpful! To answer your question, that simply depends on the type of sound you prefer. Either way, I recommend building an enclosure to the manufacturer’s specifications. Sealed will give you tight, punchy, deep bass. It’s best for sound quality and for a variety of music. Ported will give you more output in the frequencies around 40 hertz or so, but will not have as much deep, tight bass. More of a booming, reverberating bass, good for high output.

  82. So is it ok being in a series?
    It does say 550 @2ohms in the manual
    Also I did verify it is a CVR 2 OHM sub.. And I currently have two hooked up to my 1100 watt 2 channel crunch.
    What do you recommend I do now?
    Since you say it may not be strong enough can’t I blow the sub..
    Should I turn the dial to maximum on the amp?

  83. Hi
    I have a Pioneer ts-w121spl 2000w Dual 4ohm coil and an Edge 2500w monoblock amplifier. i am so fustrated as i think the speaker (after being sat in the basement for 3 years) has packed up. The speak pumps but there isnt any heavy bass, either when its in the sealed 35ltr box or out on its own/
    Are you able to advise on the best configuration for both Amp and speaker
    amp deatails are
    4 ohm mono 1 x 400 watts RMS
    2 ohm mono 1 x 800 watts RMS
    1 ohm mono 1 x 1250 watts RMS
    Max Power: 2500 watts

    Please help. i am in distress 🙁

    • Hi Kash,
      Has the amp been sitting in the same area? I am more likely to believe the amp has been effected by a damp basement opposed to the name brand sub you have. Easy way to check the sub is press directly in the center of the sub, fingers spread equally apart the surface, palm facing center of the dustcap and press down evenly. Try this without it hooked up or playing. If it moves in and out smoothly and it also meters the correct impedance when checked with a multimeter, I would suspect there is an issue with the amplifier. I’ve never heard of Edge, but either way, electronics tend to be more susceptible to moisture than the sub. If your sub is good, I would get something like this amp to power the sub. I’m assuming you’re in the UK based on the sub model?

      Where are your settings at on the amp (list what options it may have and where they’re at)? What kind of car is it hooked up to and what head unit? It could also be tuning/wiring issues. Is the enclosure the sub is in still good?

  84. i have two pionner 12″ champion serries duel core one is 1200watts and the next is 14oowatts and i havd a audiobahan 2000watts amp # A4401Q will this push the two 12 and i was thinking about buying a crunch mono block amp what do u think will best for my to 12″

    • Hi Joseph,
      if you want to push two subs, they have to be the EXACT SAME subwoofer model. Those two different Champion subs have different power handling, which means different frequency response and efficiency. This variance means they won’t hit at exactly the same time which can easily put the frequencies they’re playing out of phase. Out of phase means it’s like two waves traveling at different speeds and their peaks and valleys hit at opposite times, thus cancelling each other out. Out of phase means hollow, no bass, yucky sound. Sell the 1200 watt and use the amp you have to power the 1400 watt. If you build the right box to spec by following the manufacturer’s recommended enclosure guide and you will not miss the other sub!

  85. Hey Annie.
    I was previously running two 12″ Kicker Comps which I believe are single coil 4 OHMS with a 1100 watt 2 Channel Crunch Amp.
    Today I stumbled on a good deal for CVRs on Craigslist so I went ahead and made the purchase. I believe they are dual coil 2OHMS?
    Is my 1100 2 Channel Crunch Amp still good for these subs?
    It says its peak is 550 @ 2OHMS.
    Also how should I wire it? I noticed that the top “positive & negative” terminals were connected to each other when I opened the box while the bottom terminals were intended for the amp (really connected to the box’s connector)

    • Hi Matthew,
      It sounds like the last owner had them wired in series, then parallel to a mono amp. Check out this owner’s guide I found on Kicker’s website. I’m not sure if you have the same exact model. If so, it sounds like your amp is really not going to be enough power. Kicker rates those subs at 400 watts RMS a piece. always look at RMS ratings for everything. Do you know the RMS rating on your amp at 2 ohms? If it’s 550 PEAK at 2 ohms, it’s probably closer to 400 watts RMS which would not be enough power.

      First you want to confirm exactly which model you have (should be labeled on the back of the magnet). Then go to Kicker’s site and look it up in their Support section so you can see the RMS rating on the subs and determine for sure whether or not they are dual voice coil 2 ohm or dual voice coil 4 ohm.

      Once you know exactly what you’re dealing with you can make a sound decision on wiring and amplifier choice. Thanks for checking out the blog!

  86. I have an alpine cda-9884 head unit and one alpine type r swr-12D2 and was just wondering what the best amp and configuration would be? Sealed or ported box?

    • Hi Steve,
      That answer all depends on what your end goal is. Punchy, chest pounding and clean bass? Or rattle your brains inside your skull, reverberating bass? Personally, I would go sealed and I would get an amp with a regulated power supply so I could be positive I was getting the approximate 500 watts RMS I needed for my sub even if I’m running the amp at 4 ohms. So I would series the sub for a 4 ohm load and power it with something like the PDXM6. I also like to keep my car clutter free, so an amp like this is great because it’s small, efficient and can be hidden in most vehicle applications. I would go sealed, and I would build the box to the manufacturer’s specifications for optimum sound quality.

  87. Hi Annie,

    I spent a little time researching a new sub, then I bought one and a new amp and cap on impulse. Now questioning my purchase.

    Here is a little background. I have an Alpine CDA-9886 head-unit in a 2000 Nisan Maxima. I am still running the stock Bose speakers. I have an adapter so that a balanced signal is still running to those speakers. I upgraded the stock sub to a JL 10W3V3 2 ohm sub with an Alpine MRP-M500. The stock 8″ sub is still installed but gets cut off by the head unit’s HPF. I went with a 10″ sub because I didn’t want to sacrifice very much trunk space. When I made that purchase, I originally used a sealed box, but the bass output was not what I was hoping for, so I bought a 1.0qft vented box (tuned to 36Hz). I used a voltmeter with a 60Hz test tone to tune the amp to 500 Watts at my max listening volume. In the end, I was not satisfied, but I have been running that setup for 2 years. The amp gets fairly hot, and I can only feel the bass when I’m parked or when I fold down my rear seats and really crank the volume. Also, the bass is nowhere near as accurate as the what the stock 8″ Bose sub used to provide.

    2 days ago I ordered a 10″ RE SXX 4ohm DVC, a RE DTS 1500.1 amp, and a Tsunami 2 Farad Cap. I was questioning buying the 4ohm sub instead of the 2ohm, but now I’m content after watching your video that running a 1 ohm setup is risky. I am worried that the DTS amp will be insufficient running a 1000W sub at only 700 W RMS at 2 ohm. Will this be sufficient? I read a few reviews of people that are happy with the SXX at 700 W, saying it rivals some dual 12″ sub setups. I’m taking that with a grain of salt. Would I be better off with a high performance 12″, like the Alpine SWR-12D4, in a sealed box?


    • Hi Mark,
      The W3’s are a really nice sounding sub, but if you like punch and sound quality, they sound way better in sealed. I do agree that only one would probably not give you enough kick with 500 watts RMS, especially when you are barreling down the highway at 60 mph. If you were looking for that same type of sound quality in one sub, but with more output you’d want to step it up to a W6 and closer to 700 watts RMS or a W7 and 1000 watts RMS.

      I have not heard RE audio, I’ve heard OF them, but personally have no experience with them to attest to their quality. With amplifiers, speakings and head units it’s all about tuning and matching sensitivity with capability. Here’s a great example to demonstrate what I mean:

      I spent an hour re-tuning our sound board yesterday. We have six 4 channel amps wired up and one mono amp on this one wall with options of listening to 8 different subwoofers and 16 different pairs of speakers. I tried to find the happy medium for all the various components, but you will find if you tune the amps (in this example a 500 watt RMS mono JL Audio and a JL Audio 360 watt RMS 4 channel) with one head unit (Kenwood 4 volt pre-outs) , one set of components speakers (rated at 80 watts RMS) and one subwoofer (rated at 300 watts RMS) everything may sound perfect at volume 32 on the head unit and the amps may be tuned perfectly for those components. Switch the head unit to something else (Alpine 4 volt pre-out), another brand speakers (rated at 100 watts RMS) and another subwoofer (rated at 500 watts RMS) all of a sudden you have to re-adjust the amplifier’s gain to match the sensitivity of all these different components. You may only be able to turn the head unit up to 26 before the preout distorts which means you may have to turn the gains up to reflect that or you may have speakers that are more efficient so the gains need to be turned down or the Alpine pre-outs may be more sensitive even though they are both rated 4 volts, etc, etc.

      I guess my point is try to get the power handling and capabilities close, but tune everything properly and you have the sensitivity of all of these components matched up and sounding the best that they can. If you do that and it’s still not the sound you’re looking for, look at the ratings on the amp. Things like damping factory and signal to noise ratio are a way to quickly see the sound quality capabilities of an amplifier. The more accurate an amp can play at higher volumes, the better your subs will sound. Match it up with a sub that is high quality and put that sub in the PERFECT enclosure. Build it to spec for sealed and it will be punchy and clean and sound the best it can.

      Eliminate silly errors that can seriously effect sound quality by putting attention to detail in setting up what you do install perfectly. The Type R sub is nice too, but I still think JL W6 sounds way better.

  88. Hey Annie

    So i have a pair of 12″ pioneer champion series pro subs and im looking for a better amp for them. Ive been doing some research and im just looking for an amp that will push my subs perfectly. The subs are 3500 watts a piece 4 ohm and can handle 2000 watts but as im looking most of the class d amps ate one ohm steady and im not sure if my subs can handle that so ur help would be appreciated

    • Hi Matt,
      If your subs are 4 ohm single voice coil, then your only wiring options would be to parallel the subs for a 2 ohm load (good for mono amps) or series them for an 8 ohm load (not really good for anything). So you want to find a mono amp that puts out around 2000 watts RMS at 2 ohms.

      None of the brands I carry do that. If you came into my shop wanting to buy two of those subs (I’ve done this before) I probably would have sold you the dual 4 ohm version and wire each sub in parallel for a 2 ohm load per sub. THEN, I would have sold you one amp per sub like a couple MRX110′s.

      Either way, you’re going to need to upgrade your battery, your alternator and the wiring in your car to the battery and alternator to 0 gauge. Then run 0 gauge from your battery to a distribution block and from there you can go to a 2 or 4 gauge wire to the amps.

  89. I was just curious what kind of amp I should get to get the top performance out of my Rockford Fosgate 10 inch subs. I dont understand them at all they are OLD as ever and they say their 8 ohms & are single voice coil subs I tried to look online to find info on them but had no luck I’ve have barely ever seen 8 ohms subs. The number on the subs are RFP-1810 if that helps. I got them at a yard sale for cheap. they are in good shape so I’m curious if u would no anything about what kind of amp to get & the best way to hook it up.

    • Hi Justin,
      Those came out before I got into this business. So they’re rated around 200 watts RMS. You’ll want to wire them in parallel for a 4 ohm load. You can then get yourself a 2 channel amp like a JL JX 360/2 and bridge the amp. The amp will put out around 360 watts RMS total. Make sure the surround hasn’t rotted away, they’re about 16 years old.

  90. Hey Annie,

    How do you feel about digital design? Im very new to the audio system world. I had my very first system installed a little over a year ago. My components consist of polk audio 6.5″ and tweeters, along with kicker 6×9. then I have the digital design amp and subs in the trunk. my subs randomly stopped working on me around january of this year :(….head unit is pioneer, by the way. I also had a digital power cap put in as well. I also lined the top of my trunk with dynomat (i dont like too much rattle). I spent over 1500 total for the system and while it worked, it sounded great (i hate for the bass to overpower the vocals)and i could hear lyrics very well with the subs thumping. I wasnt completely satisfied with how loud it was, however…and it has been really difficult for me to find information as to where digital design ranks among other manufacturers. I should have researched more thoroughly before making that investment the first time but you live and you learn. So now i am looking for more subs and another amp…but im not sure if i should stick with DD or move on to something better…

    • Hi Lance,
      I actually had not heard of digital design before, but it doesn’t look bad. You can have the best quality components in the world but if they’re not installed or tuned properly, they won’t do you any good. You said your subs stopped working randomly on you. That leads me to believe either the installer did not run wiring properly or secure the wiring, or he did not tune the system properly meaning your amp is running into distortion and either damaged the subs or has made the amp turn off. I would take it to another shop and have it diagnosed and/or re-tuned and or re-wired. Other factors that will effect sound quality are the type of enclosure the speakers are in. I have some questions for you,

      Which model subs do you have?
      What kind/size box are the subs mounted in?
      Which model amp or amps?
      What gauge wire is run for the amp or amps?
      Which model Pioneer head unit?
      Which model Polk Speakers/Kicker 6×9’s?

      I know it seems like a lot of questions, but all of these components have value and when connected and tuned and set up properly should sound pretty good. I have seen TOO many customers spend hard earned money on decent equipment only to get really terrible results all do to bad install and bad tuning. I had a customer once drive 2 hours North of our town just to get Diamond speakers and Diamond amps. Holy cow, I never heard a car sound worse with that good quality equipment. Whoever installed it was a ****ing idiot and managed to make it sound worse than the stock head unit. And that stuff isn’t cheap! We charged him 2 hours to re-tune and he was a happy camper. He was finally able to enjoy the quality equipment that he had invested in. Let me know what you have!

  91. Hey Annie,

    I have 2 12″ DVC Kicker CVR”s (specs below). I was wondering what amp you recommend to run these at 2 ohms? Would you recommend a different amp if I was to run these at 4 ohms? I havent decided what Ohm that I want to run them at, but I’m going for loudness so I’m probably going w/2 ohm.

    I have them hooked up on an 800 watt 4 channel Kenwood amp right now and the amp overheats and cuts out (I know, it’s not wired like it should be and it’s the wrong amp for these subs, but that’s why I’m trying to change it.

    I was thinking an MTX 1501d would be good, but I’m sure that’s a little over the top are their is an amp out there that will power these without over heating and costing as much as that MTX.

    03CVR122 Features and specifications:

    mica-filled polymineral cone
    Santoprene rubber surround
    dual 2-ohm voice coils
    frequency response 25-500 Hz
    power range 50-400 watts RMS (200 watts RMS per coil)
    peak power handling 800 watts
    sensitivity 86.5 dB SPL

    Thank you for any suggestions!

    • Hi Royce,
      Sorry for the delayed response, but thank you for visiting and commenting at the blog! So two subs, 400 watts RMS and dual voice coil 2 ohm. Well definitely go for a mono amp in the 800 to 1000 watts RMS. I like Alpine’s new MRX-M110. It’s 1100 watts RMS and only around $399.95. You can wire the subs in series so they have a 4 ohm resistance each, then wire the subs together in parallel for a final 2 ohm load. Use discount code “carstereochick2012” and get 10% off your order (currently shipping to US only right now).

  92. Annie
    Also what enclosure do you recommend (ported or seal) for the JL w6 for the best deep bass possible. You know the type of bass that can be heard from a block away. Also you ask about the head unit. I’m going to use the stock Bose system also Im connecting the lc2i
    Should I connect the lc2i to the signal before or after the amp

    • Hi Mike,
      Two 8 ohm speakers will provide more surface area compared to one 4 ohm speaker, so you will probably have more output or more mid bass with two 8 ohm drivers. The Audio Control LC2i is cool, but it’s only 2 channel. You’ll want to get something either like the Jl Audio Cleansweep I mentioned earlier OR, if you like Audio Control, check out their DQL-8.

      Whenever possible, get your signal before the amp if you’re doing a full aftermarket audio system (but keeping stock head unit). When only adding an amp for an aftermarket sub, it may be better to go before the amp or to go after the amp. It’s kind of a case by case situation depending on how much signal there is in either scenario. In your car it should be analog and full range signal, so you should have no issue going before the stock amp.

      For sound quality and deep, low and punchy bass notes, build sealed. We use BassBox Pro software to calculate optimal enclosures based on the car and the driver. If you build it to spec, it will sound far better than the manufacturer’s own enclosure. Ported will give you as much as 3 DB more output around a specific frequency (usually around 40 hertz) compared to a sealed box, but a sealed box will play louder at lower frequencies (like 30 hertz). Sealed, in my opinion, has a steadier output among the frequency range vs being really loud at one particular frequency. I think that makes it more consistent and predictable and more natural in sound reproduction. It’s response is also tighter.

      Sounds like you’re building a pretty nice audio system. Remember, your components are only going to be as good as the processor you are using to integrate with the stock system. Think about it this way. You could have the best speakers and amps in the world, but if you’re running it all through a basic hi level adapter from a stock stereo, your sound quality is only going to be as good as what the stock stereo can reproduce. A quality processor like the DQL-8, the Clean Sweep or Audison’s Bit One allow you to really appreciate the full potential of your components.

  93. Hi Annie
    Thanks for your response. Those speakers being used for midrange are amazing, The sound is ridiculous loud and distortion is minimal, I had the same type of speakers in my charger few years ago now I’m putting these on my 2010 maxima. I detest listening to cars ride by with nice loud bass but you can’t even hear the mids.

    Are 2 – 8ohm mid wired in parallel better than a single 4 ohm mid

    Your post educated me a lot about the impedance and the diff wiring methods. Thanks for all that info.

  94. Hi,

    I have a PPI 1800.2 for 2 JL W6v2
    I think the best way to get the best out of both
    Worlds is to series each sub then parallel them at the amp to bring the impedance to 4
    and then bridge the amp . The amp says 400 WRMS x 1 @ 4 and 800 WRMS x1 @ 2
    I can’t figure out how to wires the subs to 2 ohms unless I only use one.
    My question is
    Is it safe for the amp to run both JLs @ 4 Pushing 400 w when the needed power for both of the JLs
    together is 1200w or is it best to just use one JL wired in parallel @ 2 ohms with the amp pushing 800
    When the recommended power handling for the JLs is only 600

    For midrange I have (4)- 6.5′ 8 ohms beyma mi90 wired each set in parallel
    For impedance of 4 ohm then hooked up to a Zeus 600 vii 300 watts per channel @4 ohms
    And 450 w per channel @ 2 ohm (the watt double when bridge)

    For mid bass I have ( 2 ) 8′ beyma Pro100 8 ohm

    For highs I have (4) 8 ohm MTX bullet tweeters

    No amp yet

    A friend of mines has a newer Zeus amp 1000 watts x 4
    Is it ok to grab this amp and use 2 channels bridge to the mid bass speakers
    wired in parallel and use the other 2 channels each to a pair
    of the tweeters wired in parallel. Is this ok?

    If not what amp or amps do you recommend?
    I like old school amplifiers they seem to hit harder.

    I have a kicker kx3 xover

    • Hi Mike,
      That’s a nice amp and the W6’s are my favorite subs. Definitely just use one W6 wired in parallel. It’s a far better power handling match. It’s always better to have too much power. Too little power means you risk clipping the amp, which means distortion, which means blown speakers.

      I’m really confused. Why are you using, what appears to me, to be guitar or studio speakers? What kind of vehicle is this for? What head unit are you running? Let me know. Thanks.

  95. Hi I have a tahoe and im thinkin about getting 4 fosgate t1d415 or the t1d215.Which is best and the amp i was looking at is 2 fosgate class d t1000-1bdcp.Need to know is this a good setup what you think?

    • Hi, Well if you wanted to do those subs, you’d need one of those amps per sub. You’d also, most definitely have to upgrade the power supply in your vehicle. Each sub wants 1000 watts RMS and the T1000.1BDCP puts out 1000 watts RMS. If you were to do 1 sub per amp, go for the dual 4 ohm version, the T1D415 so your amp will see a final 2 ohm load. Enjoy!

  96. hi i have a cadence z5000 amp with is a one channel amp. i have 2 12″ l7s in a pirted box. should i run the amp 2 ohm witch is only 1500 watts our should i run it 1 ohm witch would be the full 5000 watts? im trying to get the most out if the l7s without blowing them and i’m kind if confused and i have been around systems my whole life.

    • Hi Chris, what model are your subs exactly? I need to look them up to tell you the best way to wire this as well as what your exact wiring options are. Depending on whether your subs are single voice coil or dual voice coil and whether or not they are 2 ohm or 4 ohm (each voice coil), will determine your different impedance options for the amp. Thanks.

  97. Annie,
    I appreciate your help. I have been out of the stereo world for a few years and my fried is a big Rockford Fosgate person. That is why I was thinking of the for mentioned subs.

    I am looking for more thump with crisp sound, I like to listen to Nickelback, AC/DC, Rehab, Queen, etc. My current budget is not very big, but I am working on it. I was planning on buying or having a friend of mine build a box to go under the back seat for the subs.

    You said something about quality not quantity. What else would you recommend for around the same price area of the Excelon amp and Alpine subs that you mentioned? Also, would you recommend a down-fire box or up-fire box for my setup.

    After I get the subs set up, I would also like to upgrade my 4 door speakers, what would you recommend for them to give me a clear, crisp sound, connecting to my factory HU?

    I am open to suggestions for the whole setup, but I am on a budget. I have 3 boys that are all in sports, so it makes the money tight.

    Thank you,

  98. Annie,

    I have a 2006 Chevy Avalanche factory head unit wo/Bose. I thinking of getting 2 of the Rockford Fosgate R2D4-10 DVC at 4ohms or 2 of the Rockford Fosgate R2D2-10 DVC at 2ohms. I still need to get an amp and I am on a budget. I am looking for more thump, so I was hoping you can recommend an amp and which ohms of the subs to us.

    Subs info for both:
    * Sensitivity: 85 dB
    * RMS Power Range : 250 Watts
    * Peak Power Handling: 500 Watts
    * Diameter: 10 Inch
    * Shallow Mount: Yes
    * Number of Voice Coils: Dual

    Thank you,

    • Hi Kevin,
      So I’m assuming you’re building a couple boxes to go under the back seat? And what attracted you to the Rockford’s, have you heard them before? Did the price catch your eye? I haven’t heard Rockford in a while, but I tell you the last time I heard them I was royally disappointed in sound quality and price point. I thought they were charging double what they should have been. I don’t really know how the stuff is now. If you walked into my shop today I would ask you a few questions in order to point you in the right direction:

      *What are you looking for? A little bump, more for sound quality?
      *I’d want to know what other vehicles you’ve had and what you had in those cars and how you felt about it?
      *What’s your total budget for everything (are you installing/building boxes yourself)?
      *What kind of music do you listen to?
      *Have you heard anything in particular in any friend’s/family’s cars that made you think, “I gotta add subs to my truck”, if so, do you know what they had in their car?

      One thing to always remember when it comes to audio is it’s not always quantity, but quality. Depending on the needs you are trying to fulfill, it may make more sense to go with something else.

      Having said all that, if you go with the Rockford’s (and you’re getting 2 of them), get yourself the Dual 2 ohm versions. Wire each subs voice coils in series so each sub will give you a 4 ohm resistance, then parallel the subs so your final load will be 2 ohms. Then get yourself a nice mono 500 watt RMS mono amp.

      We recently got in the new Kenwood Excelon X500-1. We put it on display and I just tuned it up the other day with a pair of Alpine Type E subs (similar to Rockford as far as the power handling and price goes, my favorite subs when on a budget). Holy crap, I was impressed. Considering the size and the quality of the amp, I was really surprised they were able to offer them at such a great deal. If you buy through this link to ABT you get a real 1 year manufacturer warranty and I get a little something for my contribution. Let me know the answers to those questions and we can discuss further.

  99. Thanks Annie

    That’s what I was thinking but like I said I don’t know a lot about it. The speakers are Kickers(cheaper one are Kicker DS6930, the others are Kicker KS69). Didn’t want to say cuz I know how much you like Alpine haha 🙂

    Looked at the Alpine SPS-619 but I’m leaning towards the Kickers because the frequency response goes much lower than the Alpines and will give me more bass(so I don’t have to get a sub, since I can’t afford that either)30-21,000 compared to 65-23,000. And the sensitivity is higher on the Kickers too(my understanding is the higher the better). 92db compared to 90db.

    Also wanted to say I really appreciate you answering my question and I’m sure so do a lot of other people. Really cool of you.

    • Sorry for the delayed response! There’s nothing wrong with Kicker, I just am familiar with the brands I sell. I don’t like to carry everything my local competitors sell (Best Buy, although I don’t REALLY consider them a competitor, but still). I wouldn’t worry so much about the frequency response. 30 hertz for a 6×9 is pretty crazy, it would probably have to be in a very, very large enclosure to get that kind of bass response (or mounted in the rear deck of a very large trunk). A high quality 10″ subwoofer can typically only go down to about 26 hz, so for a 6×9 to go that low is pretty impressive (if it can actually do it). And the other question to consider is if it can do it, at what volume?

      My suggestion? Go to a retailer that sells both so you can hear for yourself. I trust my ears over specs every day.

  100. Hey Annie,

    I’m trying to learn about speakers more but have a really simple question for you.
    I am trying to decide between these 2 speakers.

    1 is $60: 3-way, peak-140, rms-70, sensitivity-92, frequency 30-20,000, ohms-4
    Tweeter Design- Semi-dome
    Tweeter Composition- PEN
    Woofer Composition- Polypropylene
    Woofer Surround- Ribbed Poly-Foam

    2 is $75: 2-way, peak-270, rms-90, sensitivity-92, frequency 30-21,000, ohms-4
    Tweeter Design- Dome
    Tweeter Composition- Titanium
    Woofer Composition- Injection Molded Polypropylene (IMPP)
    Woofer Surround- Santoprene Rubber

    So for the most party they are the same but very different wattage handling. I will most likely never get an amp for them, probly only get a good head unit a couple weeks later so I was wondering if I should just get the lower one or for only $15 more get the one with much more power.
    Will there be absolutely no difference in the speakers if I never hook them up to an amp? Will they both max out at a certain level because they’d be only supplied up to a certain amount of power? Would I be wasting my money getting the better pair?
    They are both the same brand speaker.

    Thank you very much

    • Hi John,
      Can you tell me what brand/model? Generally speaking, if you’re only going to power the speakers off the head unit, you’re better off going with the ones with the lower power handling as they are usually more efficient. Meaning they should play louder with less power compared to the ones that can handle more power. Usually speakers that can handle more power really need more power in order to do the speakers justice. But some brands/models are more efficient than others, so let me know! -Annie

  101. Hi. I’m kinda confused when I read the specs on my Punch p600.1 bd mono amp. It states 325 watts x 1 @ 4 ohms and 600 watts x 1 @ 2 ohms. Does that mean if I wire my 12 inch Alpine type r sub (dual voice coils 4 ohms)in parallel (I’m running 2 subs) the amp will push out 600 watts rms per sub or a total of 600 watts divided by 2 which would mean each sub is going to see only 300 watts rms? Thanks!

    • Not quite 🙂 I’m afraid I have some bad news for you too. If you have TWO SWR1243D (or any two dual 4 ohm subs), you’ve got the wrong configuration for a mono amp. Which is bad because you need a high output amp and high output amps are usually mono amps. So what you need is an amp that has a regulated power supply. And you need an amp that covers the TOTAL RMS of both subs combined. So depending on what version Type R’s you have, you need an amp that puts out 1000 – 1200 watts RMS at 4 ohms.

      Your only wiring options for your subs is to either parallel each sub’s voice coils (brings them down to 2 ohms each), then series each sub which will result in a 4 ohm load. The other way (not suggested) is to parallel each sub’s voice coils, then parallel again bringing the final load down to 1 ohm. Not a good idea. Watch my video on ohms for a better understanding.

      The other option is to buy ANOTHER P600.1bd and power up each sub with their own amp. Unless you have an oscilloscope and know how to tune with one, I don’t recommend that either as it’s extremely difficult to get the gains exactly the same. If they’re slightly off it can effect phase which ends up reducing your bass response.

      Check out Alpine’s PDXM12. It will give you 1200 watts RMS at 4 ohms.

  102. I dont have any new subs or technical problems to ask about. However, I would like to ask some questions. I am considering replacing the factory sound system in my 2005 Cadillac CTS. Are there any interior speakers or brands that you would recommend? And when replacing interior speakers is it necessary to replace the cd/stereo deck too? I would like to keep price down considering how expensive audio components cost these days.

    • Hi Justin,
      Quick question for you. Do you have the factory Bose system (or Onstar and/or steering wheel controls)? It would usually say it right on the stock head unit and sometimes even on the doors near the stock speaker grills. Let me know so I can better answer your question, I have a few ideas for you depending on which stock set up you have. Let me know! -Annie

  103. Ok so i have two Alpine type R 12s SWR-1223D they are the dual ohm voice coil and i wanted to know the best amp to use for them. Right now i have them in a $ ohm load being run off of a Kenwood KAC-7205 dual channel amp and i know that it is not doing them justice i plan on using it for my 2002 Trailblazer door speakers which i am replacing with type R 6.5 door speakers, I also have installed a Kenwood DDX419 for my head unit. I have looked into a new amp and am so lost by the responses that i have gotten. I have been told keep alpine subs with an alpine amp and I have looked at the MRX-M100 is that going to be enough? I have also been told to get the Rockford Fosgate power T1500 but is that to much i am so confused at this point i dont want to waste money and I think i need a capacitor but i am still so new to this and want to do so much I just would like some much needed help and assistance if you dont mind.

    • Hi Pat,
      The MRXM100 or MRXM110 is a great option for your subs.

      The Rockford would do it, but I don’t think it’s nearly as good an amp as the Alpine’s. Rockford used to be REALLY good like 10 years ago, I used to sell their stuff and had a couple awesome Rockford amps, but it’s just not the same. They stopped making them in Arizona, outsourced, cut their quality and jacked the prices. The X power series amps from Alpine are AWESOME. They used the same great technology used in their top of the line PDX series, but they’re less money because they have a larger foot print (costs a lot to pack a lot of power into a small space), they’re not as pretty (yes cosmetics come at a cost) and they’re not regulated power supply (It seems this feature is more money).

      Nice choice on the head unit! I love that deck. You’ll want to turn on the HPF or high pass filter. That will filter out the bass going to your interior speakers. Use the crossover on the amp (LPF). Set both around 80 hertz. Leave things like bass boost off on the head unit, try not to adjust bass on the head unit so much as your sub level control. If you find that you have a lot more bass when your car is parked vs when you’re on the highway you can turn the bass boost on the AMP on.

      To tune. Start with the gains on the amp all the way down, crossovers set, tunes cranked (just to the point of distortion, then back it back down a few notches). Then bring the gains up slowly, listening to a variety of music, bring the gain on the amp just to the point of distortion, then back it back down.

      Wire your subs voice coils in series so each sub represents a 4 ohm load, then parallel each sub for a final 2 ohm load at the amp.

      Use 4 gauge power and ground, 100 percent oxygen free copper. Enjoy!

  104. hi my names justin.
    ive been doin the car sound for awille now i have a few questions to ask myself
    i have rockford fosgate p3’s 15”. now after reading this i understand how i fried a few amps, trying to run it on 1 ohm .
    now my buddy just bought the same set up as me , but dropped an extra 300 bucks , vea a 3000 watt powerbass amp.
    how what do you think of that amp do you think thats enough or what do you recomend givin have the least money budget
    also the sound guy we bought it from was blowing that shit away at 1 ohm on the same amp. powerbass 3000, but idk if he was just lien or what ever, and i dont want him to blow that new amp, because we fried a hyphonics brutis 1200 whatt, a few ago as well , in a weird way might have been from some natrual cause but whatever,

    what ohm set up and amp do you recommend for 2x P3’s 15”
    that do the subs justice, currently now on a 1000 whatt crunch amp vea 2ohm

    • Hi Justin,
      The answer all depends on which P3’s you have the Dual 2 ohm or the Dual 4 ohm?

      As far as the brands you mentioned, I’ve never been a huge fan of Hifonics. I’ve had customers bring them in having bought them themselves and have had us install them. They are usually pretty power hungry and inefficient. Usually having fuses of 140 – 200 amps. That’s a huge current draw, considering most cars have a 130 – 150 amp alternator.

      This means when you’re really trying to crank it, your car can’t provide enough current for the amp. When that happens you’re basically starving the amp for power. Think of it like trying to suck through a tiny straw on a really thick milk shake. It’s pretty inefficient and you’ll get pretty tired of trying to drink your milk shake like that. Same thing happens to your amp, it gets pretty sick of trying to suck out all that power. So whenever you want to do a high output system like that, you need to use the proper gauge wire, have a sufficient power supply (battery and alternator) and buy an efficient amp.

      The p3 15’s handle 600 watts RMS. If you bought the dual 2 ohm version (ideal), you would want to wire the subs in series, then parallel. This will result in a final 2 ohm load. That’s a pretty good impedance, an amp can push out a good amount of power at 2 ohms, but once you drop below that you unleash way more power, but with less control and efficiency.

      A nice, efficient and cost effective option would be Alpine’s MRXM-100. That amp only has a 100 amp fuse compared to the hifonics brutis which has a 140 amps worth of fuses. It’s on sale because it’s last years model. Another nice option is the Kenwood Excelon X-1200M.

      These amps might be a little more money than some of the other amps you’ve looked at or gone through, but that’s the thing, these are QUALITY amps that will last. So if you spend a little bit more now, you’ll get the sound quality and output you need and you won’t be buying another amp in 6 months. Either one of these amps needs good, quality 4 gauge wire, 100 percent oxygen free copper for power and ground.

      Oh and always look for the RMS ratings on amps. For that Crunch? From what I can find online, that 1000 watts is a PEAK rating. The true, or RMS, power at 2 ohms is only 500 watts which means you may be under powering your subs right now which means you risking blowing them. Good luck with your upgrade!

  105. Hey annie, I have a kenwood mono KAC-9105D class D Mono Amp, 1800 watts MAX– and two Memphis 10″ car audio speakers , their both dual voice coil there connected in perellel , but dnt realy sound that Good , How would u connect those speakers to the amp? All my budys say , it should hit harder but idk wat can be the problem? How would u do the wire-ing?? N thanks)

    • Hey Erik,
      I’m assuming they’re dual 4 ohm voice coils? So you paralleled everything? If you connected both positives on the sub’s voice coils and both negatives on the sub’s voice coils, you’ve paralleled each sub down to a 2 ohm load. If you then tie in the positives and negatives again to the amp, you’re paralleling again down to 1 ohm. If that’s the case, 1 ohm would be very loud and pretty unstable so it wouldn’t sound good. It would be loud, the amp may cut out and overheat, but the sound wouldn’t be tight or clean.

      Which model Memphis subs? You might need a better power handling match. The Kenwood amp will put out 500 watts RMS with 4 ohm load, 900 watts RMS at a 2 ohm load, and also 900 watts RMS at a 1 ohm load (regulated power at 1 ohm).

      What gauge wire are you using for power and ground? It should be 100 percent oxygen free copper. Let me know.

  106. Thanks for getting back to me. I took your advice and have only purchased the jl audio 2 12w3v3-4, no amp yet.. Any recomendations on an amp? My budget is somewhat tight. Not looking to spend over 300 if i don’t need to.

    • Hey Vince,
      Kenwood has a nice 900 watt mono amp that would work well, the KAC-9105D and retail is $299. It’s a great value and good quality.

  107. Hey Annie, not sure if you are still answering questions, but if so I have a quick one for u. I’m looking to purchase 2 12″ w3v3 jl audio subs and G1700 jl audio amp. The subs are 2ohm and can handle about 200-1000 watts rms (2000 peak. The amp is as such; RMS Power Rating at 14.4V: 4 ohms: 350 watts x 1 chan. \ 2 ohms: 700 watts x 1 chan.
    RMS Power Rating at 12.5V: 4 ohms: 250 watts x 1 chan. \ 2 ohms: 500 watts x 1 chan
    I don’t know much about this stuff, so basically just wondering if this is a good match!

    • Hi Vince,
      Only if you plan on getting the 4 ohm versions. You’d want to wire each single voice coil sub in parallel for a final 2 ohm load so the amp would put out 700 watts RMS at 2 ohms. If you bought two of the 2 ohm versions your only wiring choices are 1 ohm or 4 ohm and that won’t really work for that amp.

  108. Hi can u please help with some advice. I have a dual-4 L7 wired for a 2 ohm load. I am looking for a good amp and found a few that are affordable such as hifonics and soundstream however they are 1 ohm stable amps. I will only want to run a 2 ohm load. Will a 1-ohm stable amp (that puts out 1200w at 1 ohm and 750 to a 2-ohm) be a big drain on the battery since its putting out to a 2 ohm load or should I just get an amp that only goes down to 2 ohms? Long story short, a 1200w 1 ohm stable amp or a 750w 2 ohm stable amp? I don’t want to kill my alternator.

    • If you have the 12″ L7 it looks like that sub wants about 750 watts RMS. So as long as the amp puts out 750 watts RMS at 2 ohms you’ll be fine. Make sure you run 4 gauge wire for power and ground and depending on what kind of car you have, you may need to get a higher amperage alternator. You may want to add a capacitor (don’t cheap out, I’ve seen crappy caps damage nice amps). Also if you’re concerned about killing the battery, look at the fuse ratings on the amp. The lower they are, the more efficient they are and the less of a draw you’ll have on your battery.

  109. need help have 4 alpine type Rs and i want em all in my truck to sound good the guy i had it from had each 2ohm dual voice coil wired to a 1ohm load each woofer so what ever amp i got blew to protect mode he told me he ran a 1ohm stable amp on each woofer do i need to do that to get the best sound out of it please help so lost

    • Hi Robert,
      I don’t ever recommend running anything at 1 ohm. It’s highly unstable, very few amps can handle it and you usually end up either damaging an amp or a sub in the process. As you drop impedance the amp lets out more power, but with less control. This will lead to the amp overheating and distorting. The distortion will damage your speakers. If you have 4 dual 2 ohm Type R subs, here is what I recommend you do.

      Buy two amps. One amp for each pair of subs. Preferably something that is 1000 watts RMS at 2 ohms like an MRX-M100.

      Wire each sub to 4 ohms, so you want to series the voice coils.

      Then you can parallel two subs together to one amp. So your final load at the amp with two subs hooked up will be 2 ohms. You’ll be giving the right amount of power to the subs (500 watts RMS a piece, wired this way, the amp will safely put out 1000 watts RMS total between 2 subs). To do this right, you really need two separate amps, one for each pair of subs.

      Also, you need to be running 0 gauge for power and ground, and depending on what type of truck this is, you will probably need a higher amperage alternator and high capacity battery. I hope that helps!

  110. Also I was just wondering if it mattered that the Alpine SPR-69 6×9″ 2-Way for $90 doesnt come with a speaker grill

  111. Hey, so here’s my deal, I currently have an audiopipe AP-10001 D class d power ampilfier rated at 1000w powering 2 15 ” planet audio PX150 1200w dual voice coil 4ohm subwoofers. I have 4 gauge wire running to the battery. Right now I have it wired at 8 ohms with the amp bridged. If I run it two channel off the amp and have it parallel, it sounds sooo much better, but the bass starts to cut in and out and clip when I turn the volume up to 30, which is medium range for my head unit. What can I do to drop ohms without having this problem as a result?

    • Hi James,
      So here is why that is happening. As misleading as it may look on your amp, your amp is actually a mono amp. So those two terminals they give you on the amp are actually just to make it easier for you to parallel a pair of subs to it. So if you have each sub series (8 ohms each) and then run them to each terminal on the amp, your amp is internally paralleling and actually seeing 4 ohms. This means it’s only putting out 400 watts RMS, which is far less than what your subs want (600 watts RMS). When you run each sub in parallel (2 ohms each) to the terminals on the amp, the amp is internally paralleling again, meaning it’s only seeing 1 ohm. Surprisingly Audio Pipe lists this amp as being 1 ohm stable. As I’ve said in my video post on amplifiers running 1 ohm stable, I just don’t believe in it. #1 it’ll be loud, but it won’t sound clean and #2 if it does play, it won’t play for very long before it over heats and shuts down. Check out my video post, it might make more sense.

      But anyways, I suggest you try running just one sub parallel for a 2 ohm load. The amp will put out 600 watts RMS at 2 ohms which is actually what one of your subs needs. Try one sub that way and see if it’s a happy medium for you.

  112. Hi Annie, Thanks for the topic since it’s totally what I’ve been trying to figure out. I recently purchased a single JL Audio 12w6v2-D4 sub, JL 500/1v2 slash series mono amp to power it. You may have partially answered Josh’s post on your Feb 27th response but I’m trying to figure out how to get the best sound quality for this sub. I guess what I’m most confused about is whether I can run this JL sub in 8ohms using series since the 500/1v2 mono block can produce 500watts rms at 1.5,2,3,4 ohms but nowhere does it state it can handle 8ohms since the sub is a dual 4ohm voice coil as your example above. i’m assuming that running it in 8ohm series is going to get me much cleaner sound than 2ohm parallel.

    thanks in advance and i really enjoy your blog


    • Hi Billy,
      The JL Slash amp is a great amp, it will sound the same whether you give it a 1.5, 2, 3 or 4 ohm load. So you should wire the sub in parallel (tie together both positives, tie together both negatives) for a 2 ohm load and enjoy. I’m glad you enjoy the blog!

      P.S. the reason the impedance doesn’t make a difference on this amp is it uses a special technology JL calls R.I.P.S. It means that it has a power supply with a control circuit regulating how much power comes out. This means there is no fluctuation in output or sound quality between the impedance noted, so there’s no benefit to an 8 ohm load over 2.

  113. I was just what your opinion is on which set of speakers to get since it seems like you have a lot of experience with alpine. Also just wondering what the difference between the 2-way and 3-way is. I can’t afford to get everything right now but plan on getting a good pioneer HU in a couple months and an amp but right now my back speaker are blown and have to start there and want to get a pretty good set so this is what im looking at getting:

    Alpine SPR-69 6×9″ 2-Way for $90
    Alpine SPS-619 6×9 3-way for $80


    • Hi John,
      The Type R’s are a better value. They sound cleaner and will handle more power (in case you want to add an amp down the road). The difference between a 2 way speaker and a 3 way is pretty minimal when we’re dealing with a coaxial speaker that has all 3 mounted in the same housing. Each driver is responsible for different frequencies. The tweeter playing the higher frequency ranges and the main speaker playing all other frequencies. The 3 way just splits the frequency range up a bit more.

      So say the range of 65 – 18,000 hertz is going to either speaker. The tweeter has a little cap/coil or basic crossover filtering out what speakers are playing to it. So the tweeter of the 2 way is probably playing about 3000 hertz and up and the rest of the speaker is playing below that. With a 3 way set up the the tweeter is still playing around 3000 hertz and up, the smaller mid range speaker is probably playing around 1200-3000 hertz and the large speaker is playing everything under that.

      I think people find them more attractive because they see more drivers and think they’re getting a better value because of it. But it’s really not doing anything special for you. So if you plan on adding a 4 channel amp at a later date, the Type R’s are the better bet. If you only plan on powering your speakers off the head unit, the Type S is the better bet as they are more efficient. Meaning they’ll actually play louder with less power.

      But the type R’s definitely sound better, so I’d go for those. And as far as the grill goes, that’s only important if you’re putting these in a car that doesn’t accept 6×9’s. Like if you are cutting them into the rear deck lid of a car that comes with 6.5″. But if it’s a factory 6×9 you’re replacing, you can and should use the factory grills.

      I hope that helps!

  114. Hi Annie,

    I’m in the process of changing my setup and I was very interested in the Alpine PDX-M6 Mono Amp. The rating on the amp states 600 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms (600 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms). I’m only interested in one 10″ sub, and I was looking at either the Alpine 1023D 2 ohm DVC, or the Alpine 1043D 4 ohm DVC. Should I go with a single 4 ohm sub or a single 2 ohm sub? The amp states the same power output with either setup. Any help would be appreciated.

    • Hi Troy, as you noticed, the Alpine PDX-M6 is an amp with a regulated power supply meaning it will put out the same 600 watts RMS whether you give it a 2 ohm, 3 ohm or 4 ohm load. So really it doesn’t matter as far as sound quality and output which sub you decided to go with as long as you give it either a 2 or 4 ohm load.

      The only other possible consideration is if you ever saw yourself adding a second sub and then upgrading to an amp that could power two. If you think you may want more, you can give yourself some flexibility and go with the dual 2 ohm. This way, if/when at a later date you decided you wanted more kick, you could buy a second one and be able to series each sub, then parallel for a final impedance of 2 ohms.

      If you ever wanted a second sub, having a final 2 ohm load would give you more options for amps if you ever decided to add a second sub. I hope that clears it up for you. By the way, that’s a kick ass amp. Their matching 4 channels are also the best sounding Class D 4 channel amps I’ve ever heard.

  115. Hello,

    I currently have a brz 1700.1 the amp is stable at 1ohm 1700 and 2ohm 1200 im planing to get 2 RF T1dvc 800w rms, do you recommend getting 2 ohm dvc for 2ohm load or dvc 4ohm for 1 ohm load. will the amp run harder on 1ohm load than 2 ohm load and if i have total of 1600 rms am i underpowering my amp by running just 1200w on 2ohm? thank you

    I also want to know if the 2 sub dvc 2ohm can be wired at 1ohm

    • I don’t like to run anything at 1 ohm. It’s loud, but by no means is it clean and it is a lot harder on the amp. So it depends on what you’re looking to do here. If you want to run the amp at 1 ohm, you would need to buy the dual 4 ohm subs, parallel the voice coils on the subs, then parallel the subs. Each time you parallel, you cut the impedance in half.

      If you want to run at 2 ohms, you would need to get the dual 2 ohm version, wire the voice coils in series, then parallel the sub. The end result at the amp would be 2 ohms at the amp. Technically you’d be under powering the subs at 2 ohms using that amp, but I still think it will be awfully loud, especially if you build the box to the manufacturer’s recommended enclosure size. As long as you don’t run the amp into distortion, it’ll be fine.

      So your only wiring configuration options for two of the dual 4 ohm subs is either parallel, parallel ending in 1 ohm. Series, then parallel ending in 4 ohms. Or series, then series, ending in 16 ohms (not advisable).

      Your only wiring configuration options for two of the dual 2 ohm subs is either parallel, parallel ending in .5 ohm (not going to work, just for a reference here), series, then parallel ending in a 2 ohm load or series, then series ending in an 8 ohm load.

      Hope that helps!

  116. Thanks Annie for the quick reply…. I have one more thing to ask… I am planning on running the eclpise 34230 for the sub.. And i am also gonna run a Eclipse 32440 for 2 sets of JL C5-650.. I bought a 4 gauge amp kit will this be big enough to power both amps? Thanks Jeramy

    • Hi Jeramy,
      It’s cutting it a little close, I would go with 2 gauge. JL actually makes a REALLY nice multi amp 2 gauge kit, comes with a nice distribution block, connectors, etc. Looks like your 4 channel does 85 x 4 RMS at 4 ohms, so that means you’re potentially running about 1080 watts RMS and based on the fuse sizes I think you should run more than 4 gauge. Hope that helps!

  117. I recently ordered a single 4 ohm p3d4-12 sub ( with 500 watt rms, 1000 watt peek) and need to find the right amp. I was considering purchasing a 5 channel amp as my main speakers are aftermarket boston acoustics (SR-60 and SR 95s) which recommend 85rms and 75rms watts at 4 ohms respectively. However my head-unit Kenwood eXcelon KDC X994) only pushes 22 watts per speaker. So I feel the quality of my main speakers is currently suffering..

    I was considering purchasing a Kenwood eXcelon XR-5S 1200W Max, Five Channel Amp for all the speakers, however it only puts out 350 watts rms to the sub.. Will this be enough to get the best sound out of my system? If not what do you think I should do in order to boost my current speakers and power my new sub?

    • Hi Lucas. Nice set up you got going on. Your hunches are correct, most 5 channels do not give you enough kick on the sub channel or at least the 500 watts worth of kick your sub wants. So I would rather see you buy two separate amps for not much more money. If you were to get something small like that XR-5S, you could look at maybe two X power Alpine Amps. Like an MRX-M50 ($250 and 500 watts RMS at 2 ohms) and an MRXF30 ($250 and 50 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms) versus Alpine’s X power 5 channel MRXV60 (50×4 and 300×1 for $400). So for a little bit more money (and wiring) you’ll give your components the power they need to perform the best that they can. Otherwise if budget is not an issue, check out JL’s HD 900/5 which will give you the power you need in the same footprint and size as the 5 channel Kenwood. I hope that helps!

  118. First off i would like to say thanks for the quick reply!!!! I have one last thing to ask. I am planning on running a eclipse 32440 amp to run 2 sets of JL C5-650s plus the Eclipse 34230 and the sub single JL 10 W6.. I bought a 4 gauge amp kit but i am not sure if that’s big enough for the power i will be pulling. I have 120 anl and 1 amp has 4 25amp fuses and the other has 4 20amp fuses. I just have a feeling that my kit needs sent back and i should go to a 2 gauge wire with a bigger anl. Whats your thoughts? Thanks Jeramy

  119. Wow, it looks like I’m a place where the next steps I take will be *expensive*!

    It’s all diminishing returns on investment, as I’m sure you’re aware… I think the wiring to the zx1500.1 is just 4 gauge, so I’ll make upgrading that a priority. I will do some more sound deadening – I know that pays off big.

    If I can fit them, I’m now considering 2 15″ Type R’s in a sealed box, if only because I’ve had such great results from the two twelves I have in there now. They are in a custom box, by the way.

    For some reason, I have an idea in my head that ported boxes sacrifice clarity and response.

    Is that a new picture of you and your lucky hubby at the top of the page? Looks good!

    See you later,


    • I agree that sealed boxes sound better, they’re tighter and cleaner. You could do the two 15″ Type R’s, just make sure you buy the Dual 2 ohm version. And the picture’s been up for a while actually. So definitely upgrade your wire next, that should help increase your output. Thanks for posting!

  120. Hello Annie

    Hi i have a question i have a old eclipse amp that i used when i went to car shows 8 years agao. I want to use the amp now. Wondering what would be the best way to hook it up. I have always paid to have my stuff installed so not sure what to do.

    The amp is a Eclipse 34230 the sub is a single JL 10 W6. Will be ok to use this amp or should i just buy another amp? Thanks Jeramy

    • Hi Jeramy,
      From what I can find, it looks like it’s a 2 channel rated at 370 x 2. Since the W6 is a dual 4 ohm, you’d have to wire the sub in series for an 8 ohm load. Even still, that amp will supply 740 watts RMS, plenty for the W6. It should sound really good actually since it’s a 2 channel running @ 8 ohms bridged. It will be really clean. Just make sure you use 4 gauge wire for power and ground. Enjoy!

  121. I have a question regarding subwoofer and amp installation. Currently I have two Kicker Comp VX 15s. They are dualvoice coil 2ohm speakers. They peak at 2000 watts and 1000 watts RMS. Right now I have two differnt amps and , like most people, I want my system to sound as well as it can. Hopefully I will be able to buy one amp of higher quality and replace the two I have now. The two current amps to which I am referring to are an older model Kicker kx850.2 and a California 1000w Mono (AP1000M). The Kicker apparently runs 295 watts RMS at 4 ohms on 2 channels and 425 at 2 ohms on 2 channels. The amp is bridgeable and should be able to crank out 850 watts when bridged.

    The California puts out 1000 watts peak and 500 RMS at 2 ohms 1 channel, and 650 watts peak/310 watts RMS at 1 channel as well.

    If I wanted to run one sub to one amp and one to another, how do I wire them? Do I run one parallel ant the other series? Which amps do run the different wiring to? I know fairly little about amps and ohm load, but your article has helped, but you still might have to break it down for me.

    Also, my box is slightly over 7 cubic feet and is ported with 4″ aero ports to tune it to 32 hz. And the box is going in Chrysler 300. My alternator is stock and I have one battery. Right now I have 4 gauge power wire and 12 gauge speaker wire. Thank you for helping.

    • Hi Daniel,
      I don’t know where to start. Okay, you never want to use two different amps for two subs. You’ll never be able to properly tune it. Even if you have the same amplifier, one for each sub, it can be difficult to tune properly. To do it right, even using duplicate model amps, you need to use a scope and measure output at the RCA’s. The reason it’s so imperative to get the tuning exactly the same on both subs is you want them moving at exactly the same time. If they’re not, you get into phasing issues. Think of the way a sound wave looks, it’s like a wave of water. You want the waves being produced to be produced in unison. When the efficiency and processing is different from one amp to another, there’s not way you’re going to get exact unison.

      When the sound waves are played and one sub is delayed, you risk the sound waves putting each other out of phase. When that happens, the frequency is basically not heard, which means you may not be hearing as much bass as you could be.

      Your best bet is to sell those two amps as neither one is enough power for either sub. Too little power means distortion which means blown subs. Look for something like what our last commenter Paul had, the Kicker ZX 1500.1 would work. That will put out 1500 watts RMS at 2 ohms. Since your subs are dual 2 ohm voice coil, you’d want to wire the voice coils in series. Then parallel the subs from there. This will result in a 2 ohm load which would be perfect for a high output mono amp. You just need to make sure you run thicker gauge power and ground wire. Kicker recommends 0 gauge for that amp.

      Sorry to be the bearer of bad news!

  122. Hey Annie-sweety,

    I did want to add that I’ve reinforced my electrical system under the hood with the “Big Three” as they say.

    And sorry for one final question:

    If I add a battery, must it be exactly the same as my first battery? Can I add a second battery without upgrading from my stock alternator?

    Thanks again, and have a nice weekend!

  123. Hi there,

    Really nice of you to give everyone great, free advice like this.

    I’ve got a jetta tdi with 2 x alpine type r’s in a sealed box in the trunk, pushing those is a Kicker zx1500.1 with the gain set to about 60% of maximum. (I’m guessing wired at 2 Ohms at the amp terminals – but I didn’t do the install, so I don’t know for sure.)

    I’ve used some generic roofing materials to seal alot of the trunk and also used expanding polyurethane on a lot of the trunk as well. I also have the speaker box itself sitting on another layer of MDF that covers the entire floor of the trunk.

    Tdi jetta is a diesel, and that engine makes a lot of noise, which i hate.

    HU is a CDA-105, wired to an old Rockford Fosgate punch 500.2 pushing 4 mtx tweets and 4 2-way alpine 6.5’s.

    Oh yeah, i’ve got some kind of off-brand 3.5F cap with a little digital readout on it… not sure if it does any good. I’ve no problems with dimming lights except at maximum volumes, and even then it’s only barely noticeable.

    So here are a few questions:

    On the Alpine CDA-105, what’s a volume that will produce a clipped signal?

    I am hearing almost no noticeable increase in bass from the subs after a volume level of 25, but significant increases at every level before that. Why is that?

    What’s the bottleneck in my system at this point? (Is there any one component that is seriously lacking?)

    What’s the next step?
    There’s barely room in my trunk for a sealed, 4- or 5- cubic sq. foot box – it might have to be custom made inside the trunk. I’m not considering a ported box, and the trunk’s too small for two 15’s.

    In a sealed box, what 15″ or 18″ sub, wired to my amp, will outperform (louder, lower, and clearer) my current 12″ Type R’s?

    Two 12″ Type X’s at four ohms? A home theater 15″ or 18″?

    Thanks very much for your time!


    • Hi Paul,
      Make sure the Alpine head unit is set to “Subwoofer System 1” under subwoofer system settings in the head unit. “Subwoofer System 2” is just a weird option, I don’t really understand why they’d offer it. According to Alpine: SUBW SYS 2: Subwoofer level change is different from the main volume setting. For example, even at low volume settings, the subwoofer is still audible.

      I also just want to make sure you’ve bypassed the original VW monsoon amp at this point since you’ve upgraded everything else?

      You know, I really don’t remember the peak volume on that head unit. If it’s 35, it’s probably clipped around 31/32. If it’s 30, it’s probably clipped around 26.

      If you were to add another battery, yes you’d have to increase the alternator size. Otherwise your current alternator will have an extremely hard time trying to charge another battery on top of it’s current load and then you’d end up with two dead batteries.

      You talked about how loud the diesel was and how you tried to quiet it down a bit. Have you ever heard of Dynamat? That stuff REALLY works. We did an entire Mitsubishi Evo a couple years ago and that thing had a pretty sweet sound system, but also had a really loud exhaust and was just not well insulated from road noise. We dynamated everything. Roof, firewall, floors, doors, trunk. It completely changed the cabin inside. The customer got more output out of his system, it sounded cleaner and there was minimal road/engine/exhaust noise.

      So before you change your equipment, I would sound deaden the whole car, that will improve your driving experience even if you’re not listening to your system. I would make sure your setting is set to Sub System 1. If anything you could get a better alternator and use a high performance battery. Is your sub box custom built to Alpine’s Specs for sealed? Or pre-fab? If Pre-Fab, consider building a custom box to manufacturer specs so you got optimum performance.

      Your amp has some serious current draw, so if there’s not enough current available, you’re not getting all the output you could from the amp. So consider upgrading your alternator and battery. From there if you want to upgrade subs, I’d say go with JL W7’s. They’re for serious high output. You’d probably have to do the 10’s based on power handling and space. Or the new Type R’s will probably be out in the summer and those handle 1000 watts RMS a piece. The Type X won’t be the right impedance for you. You’ll need to have a final impedance at the amp of 2 ohms. In fact I’m not sure the W7’s would work with that amp as W7’s are 3 ohms, so your amp would see a 1.5 ohm load and I think it’s only 2 ohm stable.

      So try those other things 1st and let me know if you’re still not satisfied. But please don’t put a home theater speaker in there. That won’t help anything! 🙂 Home audio equipment is designed for a totally different application and they use different impedance’s than car and are designed for products running off of 120 AC not 12 Volt DC. Hope that helps.

    • By the way Paul, you are running 0 gauge for that amp right?

  124. Hi, I know a little more than the average person about car audio, I have installed 4 or 5 full Car audio systems and I have built quite a few sub enclosures, etc… My question is more about “what I should buy to fit my needs and my BUDGET?”:) I have 2 X Memphis Audio, power reference, 12″ subs (rated @ 250RMS each)they are both dual voice coil/4ohm subs and there inside a custom built ported box for my 02 Camaro hatchback, lots of glass to vibrate off:). I have ALL Memphis audio equipment in my car, 2 X 8″ mids/removable tweeter combo, powered by an old school Memphis st100d amp, and 4 X 6.5″ memphis component speakers powered by another old school memphis audio amp, a 4 channel mc3004. In keeping with a budget of 150 to 200 bucks and still trying to keep the Memphis audio theme alive in the trunk, which amp do you recommend and how should I run it(which wiring pattern to match the amp you recommend impedance wise). If there’s not a Memphis amp for 150.00 to 200.00 that will be powerful enough for these subs, can you please recommend something close to the Memphis quality? Thank you so much and sorry for the lengthy question:)!

    • Hi Breck,
      I’ve never carried Memphis Audio although it does look like pretty good quality equipment. However, they don’t really have anything in your budget that suits your needs. You’re kind of in a tight spot. To keep costs down, ideally you want a mono amp as they are more efficient and generally put out more power for less money, but mono amps really need a final impedance of 2 ohms. Since you have 2 subs and they’re dual 4 ohm voice coil, you’re only wiring option is to series each sub then parallel which would result in a final 4 ohm load OR you can parallel each sub, then parallel again resulting in a final 1 ohm load.

      Now, if you’ve read enough on blog, you know that I hate running anything at 1 ohm for a couple of reasons.
      1) It’s a highly unstable load for the amp, the amp has to work very hard and inefficiently meaning it can overheat and shut down on you rather quickly
      2) The amp has very little control or damping factor at that low of an impedance which means it won’t sound very clean, tight and punchy

      What I did find from Memphis is their Reference series MR1.500 which I found for around $350. However, that amp is a mono amp and puts out 500 watts RMS at 1 ohm. So it’s more money than you wanted to spend and you’d be running the amp at that unstable impedance that doesn’t sound very good.

      You’re next option is try to find a higher powered 2 channel that will put out 500×1 bridged @ 4 ohms. The Pioneer GM-5500T is going to be your closest match. It puts out 400 watts RMS when bridged to a 4 ohm load and it’s only around $150.

      If you really wanted a mono amp you’d have to find one that put out 500 watts RMS @ 4 ohms (Kenwood KAC-9105D – $299) or you’d have to find a mono amp that has a regulated power supply. JL Audio’s Slash and HD series amps offer these along with Alpine’s PDX line of amps. It’s means they’ll put out X amount of power regardless of whether you give it a 2 ohm, 3 ohm or 4 ohm load. These amps tend to be in the $500 range, so I didn’t think that would be a good option for you.

      So I think the Pioneer is your best bet!

  125. I don’t know too much about car systems but I was wondering what you thought about getting these 6×9′s, sub and 5 channel amp to run my speakers and sub and if they’d go together correctly. I don’t have a lot to spend so the amp isn’t the best but from what I’ve looked up has more than enough power to supply everything. Also don’t know what kind of box to get for the sub but thinking about getting a vented one, just curious on what your opinion on the boxes are.

    speakers: Alpine SPS-619
    sub: Alpine SWE-1043(“10)
    amp: Boss CE2505

    I looked a little more and saw I can get this sub instead for only $10 more so I’m going with this one:

    Alpine SWS-1043D.

    Only thing is I don’t know what dual 4 ohm means. Is it basically the same as a 4 ohm and work the same with everything?
    Thanks again.

    • Hi Josh,
      What kind of car is this for? And what head unit do you have? I understand you may not have a lot of money to spent on everything, but quality should be a factory when you are spending your money on product. The Alpine Type E’s are pretty good subs, I sell quite a few of them and I think they’re one of the best sounding subs you can get for your money. However they handle around 250 watts, so I think that amp is a little overkill both for the sub and the speakers.

      You may almost be better off powering the speakers off the head unit and getting a better quality amp for the sub only with a better match on the power handling.

      The type S is the next level up in the Alpine handling a little more power for a bit more money. If you’re budget conscious, you’re better off with the Type E as it’s power handling is only 50 watts less than the Type S, I think it’s a better value. It depends on where you’re buying your stuff. From an authorized Alpine retailer (that’s how you get the manufacturer’s warranty) the speakers should be around $119, the Type E sub should be around $65 vs a Type S 10″ sub should be around $119. If you find the type S sub for only $10 more than the Type E, they’re either ripping you off on the Type E or the Type S has to be used or not from an authorized retailer.

      The Type S 6×9 are pretty efficient, so they will sound decent off your head unit, but if you do decide to amp them, they only need around 85 watts RMS.

      Ported will give you more output at certain frequencies, but sealed is tighter, punchier bass. WIthout adjusting gains on an amp, you will probably get more output with ported than with sealed. So that is a personal decision. I like the way sealed sounds better, but if output is what you’re after, you would probably preferred ported. Just make sure you follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for enclosure size either way you go. Those can be found in the owner’s manual on Alpine’s website http://www.alpine-usa.com under support section.

      Dual 4 ohm, as noted in the article, can be wired in either series or parallel. Series produces an 8 ohm impedance, parallel produces a 2 ohm impedance. So a dual 4 can either be used a an 8 ohm speaker or a 2 ohm speaker. Single voice coil 4 ohm can only be just that, a 4 ohm resistance. The various resistances will effect an amplifier’s output and sound quality.

      I would rather see you with something like the MRP-M500 for $200. It’s only for powering subs, it will power either the Type E or the Type S or even two Type E’s. It’s good quality and you can then power the speakers off the head unit. You can always get an Alpine inline amp like the KTP-445U for $149 at a later date. It’s easy to install, 45×4 and pretty inexpensive. If you can swing $400, you could splurge for something like the MRXV60. But you shouldn’t spend $150 on something that’s not good quality. You don’t want to be disappointed and just have to spend more money on the same thing later on. You’re better off building your system in stages and buying good quality equipment with each step so that you build a good quality system that will last you a long time.

  126. I have 2 12in Alpine type-r 4 ohm stable subs and im trying to get a wiring kit, a amp, and how to wire them together to get the most I can get out of them. I’ve read online that I can wire them to 1 ohm and im not sure if i should buy a 2 channel amp or a mono amp. And im also not sure what size gauge i should get for the wiring kit.

    Your Help is greatly Appreciated,
    Thank You.

    • Hi Cory,
      Which model Type R’s, the Dual 4 ohm or the Dual 2 ohm? Or are they really older and single voice coil 4 ohm (SWR-1241)? If they’re SWR-1242D or SWR1243D they’re dual 4 ohm, if they’re the SWR-1222D or SWR-1223D they’re Dual 2 ohm. This will make a big difference in what I recommend. You will need an amp that is 1000 watts RMS and you will need a good quality 4 gauge wire kit (100 percent oxygen free copper). If they’re the Dual 4 ohms, you’d want to find a 2 channel amp that puts out 1000 watts RMS when bridged to a 4 ohm load. You’d wire the subs voice coils in series so each sub would act like an 8 ohm load (see picture). Then, you’d parallel them tying both open positives from each sub together and both open negatives from each sub together to a bridged amp. The amp will then see 4 ohms which is what a 2 channel bridged amp needs to see.

      If they’re the dual 2 ohm version (better application for these 2 subs based on their power needs), you can get yourself a 1000 watt RMS (at 2 ohms) mono amp. This will be easier to find than a high powered 2 channel as mono amps are more efficient and usually put out more power than 2 channels. You would still wire the subs voice coils in series, then parallel as described above. The difference is with the impedance would result in a 2 ohm load which is perfect for mono amps.

      If they’re the older type R’s and single voice coil 4 ohm, just wire them in parallel (positives together, negatives together) and you’ll have a 2 ohm load perfect for a mono amp. If these are the Type R’s you have, still get a mono amp that puts out 1000 watts RMS at 2 ohms. I hope that helps!

  127. So basically I know nothing about car stereo systems but have been looking up about ohm’s, frequency, sensitivy, etc and still am having a hard time figuring out how to put it all together. I am not looking to get anything too crazy. Just decent back speakers(maybe front) and a 10″sub and I guess I need at least one amp.
    From what the shop told me I need 2 amps but from what I have looked up I think I just need one? Can I use 1 for both the speakers and the sub? They said it wouldn’t sound as good but like I said I don’t have a lot of money to spend and looking for just a decent system nothing to great.
    I am looking at the JBL GTO928(1 built in tweeter) or GTO938(2 built in tweeter) 6.5″ speakers, both are 2 ohm, not sure if I should be looking for 2ohm or 4ohm and if the one with 2 built in tweeter is noticeably better.
    I know it’s a lot to ask but it would REALLY be appreciated, I am having a lot of trouble with this and just want to get it already.

    • Hi Amanda,
      What kind of car do you have? I don’t really recommend getting 2 ohm speakers for interior speakers. If the shop sells you those, you really would have to get an amp to push them that is 2 ohm stable. All aftermarket head units have an internal amp for the speakers that is capable of powering 4 ohm speakers. You can definitely get a nice little system, without having to buy two amps. It’s nice to get a head unit that gives you options to expand down the road. You want to look for something that has 3 preouts. This allows you to add an amp to the interior speakers if you ever want to and one for the subs.

      You could get one amp to power everything, it would have to be a 5 channel amp. That will power front, rear and you sub channel. Otherwise we have dedicated 4 channel amps for front and rear, and dedicated mono amps for subs only.

      If you start with a good head unit that has the capabilities to expand, you’ll be in good shape should you decide to add the 4 channel amp later on. I would recommend going with something like an Alpine CDE-123. It will give you the 3 preouts and they’re high voltage. The higher the voltage on the preouts, the more sensitive they are to amps and the more kick you will get out of the amps. That model has 4 volt preouts. The other cool thing it does is it has built in crossovers.

      What that allows us to do is filter out the bass going to your interior speakers. So even if you were to simply uprgade to that head unit and add a sub and mono amp, you can tell your stock interior speakers just to play mid range and treble, the crossovers will filter out lower bass frequencies, allowing even your stock speakers to play louder and cleaner. The aftermarket head unit also has cleaner power and more power, so if your stock speakers are working, you can start by upgrading the head unit and adding a sub and mono amp for the sub.

      You can then upgrade speakers if you want, I recommend going with standard 4 ohm impedance speakers. The idea with ohms is it’s basically a measurement of resistance. The less resistance, the more power that is let out, but with less control. Less control = less sound quality. This is noticeable on interior speakers that are playing frequencies that have more detail to them. It’s much harder to hear the difference between 2 ohms and 4 ohms on subwoofer speakers. So to get more output, we generally will use a mono amp (just for subs) with a 2 ohm load. But for interior speakers, you want that detail and clarity, so you don’t want to drop the resistance on those.

      A nice cost effective option for speakers are the Alpine Type E speakers, the SPE-6000 ($79 a pair), you can also get two Type 12″ E subs for $149. Alpine also has a cool inline amp that’s inexpensive, but gives you 45×4 watts RMS for only $119 (KTP-445). The average RMS output on aftermarket head units is around 18 watts a channel. So here’s a nice set up that’s cost conscious:

      CDE-123 gives you 3 preouts, 4 Volt, built in crossovers, front or rear USB and aux for $199
      KTP-445 inline 4 channel amp for Alpine only, requires no amplifier wiring kit, easy to install, cuts down on labor cost over a typical 4 channel amp, $119
      Two pair of Alpine type E coax speakers 6.5″ SPE-6000 $79 a pair
      Alpine Type E 12″ Subs, 2 for $149
      Average cost of a double 12″ box $100
      500 watt Mono amp to power the subs from Alpine MRP-M500 $199
      average cost for amp wiring kit, vehicle wiring harness and dash kit $100
      should take about 6 hours to install depending on what type of car you have. We charge $75 an hour, most shops range between $50 – $125 depending on where you are located.

      I know it’s all Alpine, but honestly they do really good quality at their entry level priced systems. Most customers are extremely impressed with what you get for the money with that kind of system. I hope that helps!

  128. Hey Anne, I’ve had some 2 12″ mtx jackerhammer subs with a Kenwood KAC-1903D mono Amplifier (this runs 500 watts x 1 @ 4 ohms, or 900 watts x 1 @ 2 ohms).
    I’ve now bought a new sub and didn’t know if my amp would be suitable for my new 1 12″ JL audio 12 w6v2 subwoofer. which is said to be 600 watts, dual 4 ohm voice coils and power range is 200-600 watts RMS.

    I’m not exactly sure how the ohms and everything work.
    Is my kenwood amp a good fit for my JL 12 w6v2 sub?

    • Hi Brett,
      That’s my favorite sub! If you wire the sub in parallel down to 2 ohms, your amp will have more than enough power. More power is better than too little power, it’s all in the tuning. As long as you don’t have distortion at peak volumes, you’ll be fine. Check out my post on sub amp tuning for more tips.

  129. Ok I have a 15′ MTX Thunder 95009500 single voice coil 4 ibm super woofer. My problem is I want to get a Hertz EP1D mono block amp, is there any way I can get my sub to 2get ohm or 1the ohm? The among is 1I ohm stable so ide prefer 1 ohm if possible

    • Hi Dustin,
      If you have a single 15″ subwoofer that is single voice coil 4 ohm, there is no way to change the impedance. The Hertz EP1D is still a great amp and will put out 400 watts RMS at 4 ohms and your sub handles 1000 watts RMS. So it’s really not the right match up. You should get an amp that has a regulated power supply and puts out 1000 watts RMS whether you give it a 2 ohm load or 4 ohm load. You could get something like an Alpine PDXM1200 or JL Audio HD1200. Both put out 1200 watts RMS whether they have a 2 ohm load or 4 ohm load.

      By the way, 1 ohm sounds bad. It’s highly unstable, very few amps are 1 ohm stable. They will heat up because they are letting out a lot of power, but with very little control. This means it will be loud, but it will NOT be tight, punchy or clean.

  130. Hi! I recently installed a pair of Polk Audio db651 6.5″ coaxial in the front doors requiring 100 WRMS driven by a Soundstream Rubicon (RUB2.250) – Series A/B Class Amplifier 75W RMS X 2 @ 4 Ohms. I opted for no rear- fill speakers. For the bass, I have a
    Crunch GPV800.2 amplifier; bridged 800 WATTS x 1 @ 4 OHMS which I know is “over- rated”, driving a JL Audio Single CS110-WXv2: 10″ BassWedge, Sealed enclosure, 4 ΩRecommended amplifier power: 75 – 200W Nominal Impedance: 4 Ω. I have the gains set right & the high & low levels are set at 80 hz.

    Everything sounds good to me, but I’m just wondering if I upgraded the amps to a “more expensive brand” if it would make any sense as far as sound quality is concerned, or should I just leave well enough alone?

    • Hi Mike,
      I can tell you there are definite audible differences in sound quality between amplifiers. For example, the Alpine MRPF300 is an entry level 4 channel amp from Alpine, giving 50 watts x 4 RMS at 4 ohms. Their step up X power MRXF30 is the same power rating, but has a warmer, more detailed sound. Once you go to the PDXF4, you get more power, but even more vibrancy, warmth and clarity.

      Most people can hear this difference more prominently when comparing amps for interior speakers vs comparing amps for subs. However if you change your sub amp to one that has better signal to noise ratio and subwoofer damping factory, the end result is going to be cleaner, tighter bass.

  131. also i now have a infinity kappa one amp in there powering just once sub but again i dunno if the sub is running at 2 or 4 and dont know if this amp can handle it

    • Hi Jason,
      I’m sorry to hear the independent retailer didn’t help you. They suck and you should tell them they suck for not helping you. They give all independents a bad name!

      Okay so here’s the only issue. They made the SPL 1200 in either dual 2 ohm OR dual 4 ohm. So without me physically being able to meter the speaker terminal on your box I don’t know what you have and therefore don’t know how they’re wired up either. Can you actually take the subs out of the box and tell me what it says on the back of the magnet? It should be labeled 4 or 2 ohms. And from there you can tell me if they wired both positives and negatives together or if they criss crossed one positive from one voice coil to the negative of the other voice coil.

      My guess is if someone sold this to you, both subs in one box, one terminal, they must be dual 2 ohm subs, wired in series, THEN paralleled to result in a final 2 ohm load. For subs that handle 500 watts RMS a piece that would be the right thing to do because you would need a pretty powerful amp to push them. Powerful amps are usually mono amps and mono amps want to see a 2 ohm load. But the only way to know for sure is to get yourself a little multimeter, set it to the ohms position and put the positive probe on the positive side of the box terminal and the negative probe to the negative side of the box terminal.

      If they are in fact dual 2 ohm subs wired series then parallel with a final 2 ohm load, you want a 1000 watt RMS mono amp. Something like Alpine’s MRX-M100 would be ideal.

      As far as damaging amps goes it’s usually pretty uncommon. More often people damage subs from using an amp that has too little power. Damage to an amp can happen because the amp is being starved for power or it’s seeing way too low of a resistance (ohms) to perform properly and it’s constantly being overheated and eventually burns out. So you really, really need to check that impedance (ohms measurement) on the subs or at the terminal to really do this right. Make sure you are using 4 gauge wire, 100 percent oxygen free copper for your power AND your ground.

      Let me know whether your subs say they are dual 2 ohm or dual 4 ohm. If you don’t have a multimeter, just open the box and tell me what you see on the back of the magnet. I’ll help you straighten this out once and for all so you don’t have to keep buying amps. Let me know!

  132. hi.. i haave 2 kaption spl 1200 i am not sure if i wanna run just one or 2 in my trailblazer i have a kenwood dnx 6960 deck i think these are dvc that does 2 0r 4 0hm im not sure what watt or rms is best to run either one or both subs i have went to a few independants and not sure how they wired the subs either 2 0r 4 but if u can tell me what the best amp or wattage to look for and how to make these woffers the right ohms for best sound that would be wicked i keep burning amps last one was a crossfire 1400 amp i burnt and was assured i couldnt damage it as it was “compation” amp which i am sure now it wasnt PLEASE HELP tired of replacing amps

  133. Hello i have 4 12 s in my 2006 Chrysler 300C. It already has the factory Boston sound system in it. I have 2 of the mtx terminator witch are 400 Watts rms together witch is how they came in the box. I also have 2 Brutus 12 s that i was told was competition speakers that are 800 Watts rms what type of amp do i need or should i get two seperate amps. I have them hooked up to a 2 channel 800×2 American bass amp bur it doesn’t have enough power for all of them. I m runnin the factory head unit but i m about 2 switch to a boss DVD receiver. Will i need a amp for the speakers in side the car?

    • Hi Ray,
      It’s not usually a good idea to mix different model subs and amps together. What can happen is the subs are going to have different efficiencies and the amps are NOT going to be able to reproduce the sound at precisely the same time as each other, getting gains set precisely would be another difficulty on top of that which also effects the timing of what’s playing and when. When the timing of when the sound waves are produced varies, the varying sound waves can basically cancel each other out and put your subs out of phase. This defeats the purpose of having 4 subs in the 1st place. And I really, really, REALLY advise against buying anything made by Boss, it’s just not a quality brand, I honestly think your factory Boston system is of better quality than that.

      So I would rethink your system all together. If you’re looking for more output, definitely use the Brutus 12’s as they handle more power, from what I could find online, they handle 600 watts RMS. I tried looking up your amp, but the only thing I could find close to what you described was the American Bass VFL 75.1, is that the amp you have? If so, I think you can easily tweak your system and get more output with the two Brutus subs with the proper amp and a few other adjustments. If that’s the amp you have, it looks like it’s only 800 watts RMS and single channel. Really not sure if this is what you have, but if it is, you’re better off upgrading to something that gives you around 1200 watts RMS like an Alpine PDX-M12 or a Kenwood X-1200m.

      Since you’re tapping off an already amplified system, make sure that you are getting your signal for your amp from the stock Boston Acoustic Subwoofer. If you’re not, you’re most definitely missing out on a lot of bass in your system. This is because there is already a stock amp telling your stock speakers what frequencies to play. So if your car is equipped with a stock sub, and you get your signal from a door speaker, you’re only feeding your amp a midrange frequency range, not the lower bass frequencies your subs are designed to play. If you’re upgrading the head unit, that won’t matter.

      As far as the head unit goes, definitely go Kenwood! They are perfect when dealing with already amplified stock systems. They have this awesome feature called Volume Offset. Basically, when you swap out your head unit, your Boston stock amp is still in the car. Your new head unit has it’s own amp built in. So in essence, you’re going to be amplifying an amplifier. This can really suck when you have subs, because your subs are only getting one amplification signal from the aftermarket amp you have running them. So if you think about it, your interiors are going to get double amplification and your subs get single amplification. This can lead to your interiors sounding louder in comparison to your subs and sometimes it’s difficult to adjust the gains on the sub amp properly for a good balance in sound.

      Volume offset allows you to level match the stock amp and the Kenwood amp so that there isn’t such a dramatic difference in levels between interior stock speakers and aftermarket subs.

      If you do replace the head unit and find the interiors are still not loud enough for you or you want better sound quality and more output from them, you won’t be able to simply amplify them as the stock Boston speakers are really only designed to work with the stock boston amp. So you’d have to upgrade the speakers and then get a 4 channel amp for them and bypass the stock Boston amplifier.

      And on top of all of this, look up the exact model or your subs and read the installation guide. Make sure they’re in a box that is for optimum performance. Putting subs in the right enclosure makes ALL the difference in sound quality and output.

      I hope that helps and wasn’t too much to digest! Thanks for stopping by and asking.

  134. i have a 2000 gmc sierra ext cab my amp is over a foot long so theres no mounting it under the front seat,i want to know if mounting it to the enclosure is ok i planned on using a 1/4 inch thick rubber pad betwwen the amp and enclosure,would this be ok.oh and my box is a downfire with a front port.

    • Hi Chad,
      I always prefer not to do that in case you need to remove the enclosure for any reason, it makes it more difficult. But if that’s your only option, as long as there is some breathing room/ventilation for the amp, it should be fine. Rather than a rubber pad, I would rather see you take some 1/2″ or 3/4″ MDF or Trupan (a little lighter than MDF), carpet it, and velcro mount that to the box. You can get some pretty good velcro at home depot that has a strong hold. Then you can mount the amp to that with short wood screws. This way if you ever really did need to remove the box for any reason, you can basically peal off the amp mount without disturbing any wiring and easily remove the sub box only. Just make sure there’s room for air to ventilate the amp, if not, depending on how efficient or cool the amp runs, you may need to put in some cooling fans. Hope that helps!

  135. Hi! I have a planet audio BB212D 12″ dual voice coil
    power handling peak 2,400 watt
    power handling content 1,200 watt
    freq response is 12hz 350hz
    efficiency (1watt/1meter) 95dB
    impedance dual 4 ohm
    magnet structure 150oz.
    voice coil former 3 inch

    What would be the best amp for me to get to get the best sound quality? I drive an ’05 dodge ram crew cab.
    mounting depth 7-7/8″

    • There’s not a lot of room in those cabs, we usually do the JL Audio Stealth box and a 500 watt rms amp. But if you’re building an enclosure or have one that will house your sub, I would suggest an amp like Alpine’s PDX-M12 or JL Audio’s HD1200. Both are very tight and compact but will give you 1200 watts RMS. If they’re a little too pricey for you, you could go with something like Alpine’s MRX-M100 which is 1000 watts RMS. It’s just a little larger, so you’d have to figure out where to mount it. With the smaller amps you may be able to fit it under one of the front seats.

  136. Hey Annie
    i just have a really quick question i got a mono block amp thats 2 ohms stable and i have a dual voice coil sub which impedance it at 4 ohms from what i read up top my understanding is that i would need to wire it at a parallel. i just want to make sure cause i don’t want to mess up on my wiring and screw my amp or subwoofer up.

    if you could help me out i really appreciate this thanks

    amp is 2000w peek, 300w rms
    sub is 2000w peek, 900w rms

    • Hi Kelvin,
      If it’s dual 4 ohm then yes you should wire it in parallel to result in a 2 ohm load. However, if your sub wants 900 RMS and your amp only puts out 300 watts RMS, you need a better amp. Remember too little power=distortion/clipping=blown speaker.

  137. Also, these speakers would be for home stereo use and the receiver is a sony with 8-16 ohm impedance

    • Hi there,
      I was hoping you were using this for home audio, I was thinking, “Please no. Why would you put that in your car?” Have you ever heard of parts express? They’re pretty cool, you can build your own speaker kits, crossover networks and they have a lot of replacement drivers for things like this. Check out this one, that’s the closest match I could find for you.

      I couldn’t find any 10″ 6 ohm subwoofer drivers rated at 50 watts. It won’t hurt to go to an 8 ohm impedance, you just wouldn’t want to go down to a 4 ohm impedance. You may also want to check the size of the enclosure they’re in and compare it against any manufacturer’s suggested enclosure size.

  138. Oh and im just using a basic sony reciever.. Its a home stereo setup with its suggested impedence at 8-16 ohms

  139. I have this old technics 3 way speaker set up that i am trying to repair. There are two boxes and each houses a 10 inch 6 ohm sub a 8 ohm 4 inch tweeter and a horn. On the back of the actual enclosure it reads 8 ohm 50 watt max. The subs are just plain old and ive been looking to repair or replace them. Problem is technics discontinued these and ive been told a 6 ohm sub is hard to come by. i am wondering what type of subs i can use to replace them? I will any 8 ohm 50 watt sub do? Thanks for your help!

  140. Hi Annie ,
    My names Leroy and in need of help , I got the Phoenix gold rOadster 66 amp and I wanna push that with 2 JL audio w7 3omh will there be Any problems with that???

    • Hi Leroy,
      That’s trouble, that amp is NO where near powerful enough for two W7’s. Which W7’s, 8″, 10″, 12″, 13″? The 12W7, for example, needs 1000 watts RMS. And if you have two of them you need 2000 watts RMS. You really need something like JL’s slash series 1000/1 or the HD1200. Both will put out around 1000 watts RMS with anywhere from a 1.5 – 4 ohm load. They are regulated power supplies so even with a 3 ohm load, it will put out the same amount of power. You would need two of them, one for each sub. The reason I say that is it will be hard to find a mono amp that will put out 2000 watts RMS at 1.5 ohms. If you wanted one amp, that’s what you would need to find.

      You can use that amp you have for the interiors, but forget the sub channel, it’s only around 650 watts. You’d blow those babies in a second. Sorry for the bad news, but I’m glad you asked 1st! Thanks for stopping by and posting.

  141. hi. i gunna get a power acoustic pen-12w subwoofer 800 watts max 450 watts rms. it is a 12 inch and at 4ohms. and i also am gunna get an spl gorilla 800 watt amp.4 ohms: 150 watts x 2 chan.
    2 ohms: 180 watts x 2 chan.
    Bridged 4 ohm: 360 watts x 1 chan. wahts the best way to set this up with thease? please help

    • Hi Robert,
      If your subwoofer is a single voice coil 4 ohm, the easiest thing to do is simply bridge the 2 channel amp. So you’ll use the left positive, right negative on the amp to the subwoofer. That’s it!

  142. i have a 12″ fosgate he2 that i have wired for 2ohm 400w rms and im thinking of getting a kenwood mono amp that runs 500w @ 2ohm rms. i should be ok with that amp for my sub right

    • Hi Jason,
      Definitely, more power is always better than too little and it’s a very close RMS match anyways. Still make sure you tune it properly, no distortion even at high volume.

  143. I have two 15″ kicker Comp with 600w and 8ohms, what kind of amp do I need?

    • Hi Carlos,
      Which model exactly? The regular 15″ Kicker Comp shows that they offer in either dual 4 ohm or single 4 ohm voice coil and they show an RMS of 250, peak 500.

      I’m assuming you have the dual 4 ohm model of the basic kicker Comp? (not VR or VX).

      So you need a 500 watt RMS 2 channel. You’ll wire each sub in series so each sub will act like an 8 ohm sub. Then parallel to the amp so the amp will see 4 ohms. When you bridge a 2 channel amp, it will see 2 ohms.

      I don’t carry any 2 channel 500 watt amps anymore, there’s not a lot of options out there for that as mono amps tend to be more efficient. I think Pioneer has a 400 watt RMS 2 channel, the GM-5500T.

      But if you want to search, look for a 2 channel that is 500 watts RMS bridged at 4 ohms.

      You could also do a mono amp that puts out 500 watts RMS at 4 ohms, Kenwood’s KAC-9105D would do that. Hope that helps! Thanks for stopping by.

  144. hi,
    i have a Sony Xplod 2/1 Channel Amplifier the specs are;
    1200W max power
    200W x 2 RMS into 4 ohms
    500W x 1 RMS into 4 ohms(i have no idea what that means).

    i have a nissan altima and im looking for 12in speakers that will be going in to a thunder box. which subs do the think would be best and how do you think i should wire them?

    • Hi Ivan,
      What do you mean by thunderbox, is there a specific MTX enclosure you want to use for this set up? As far as the ratings go.
      If you got 2 subwoofers that were 4 ohms each, you could run the amp in stereo and run one sub off the left channel, one off the right. When your amp is run with a set up like this, you get 200 watts RMS to each channel. so you’d want single voice coil subs rated around 200 watts RMS.

      If you were to get two subs that were either single voice coil 2 ohm or (dual 4 ohm each sub wired in parallel to a 2 ohm load), then you could series your subs which would end up in a 4 ohm load. When you bridged the amp, you’d be changing it to push out 500 watts to a single channel. So the stereo signal is now mixed and the same thing will play to each sub. You would want to get subs that are either single voice coil 2 ohm or dual 4 ohm and rated around 250 watts RMS if you did it this way.

      Wiring on the amp will involve using the left positive, right negative. This is bridging. It’s safe to bridge an amp with a 4 ohm load and you will get more power out of it that way.

      Of everything I carry, I couldn’t really come up with a perfect match for you. I would say the Alpine Type E’s would be good, they’re rated at 250 watts RMS. We sell a ton of them. But they only come in single voice coil 4 ohm. So you could either wire it in stereo or bridge the amp, but the amp would still put out 400 watts RMS either way with that load. If you DID bridge the amp, you’d have to series the subs 1st.

      If that doesn’t sound good to you, look for two subs rated at 250 watts RMS that are single voice coil 2 ohm. Then wire them in series and bridge the amp to get the full 500 watts RMS. Hope that helps!

  145. Thank you so much i cant believe your answer:) im going to do everything tomorrow and bring it to an independent store.your the best annie!!! i didnt think i would get any help.thank you

    • Glad I could help, let me know how it turns out!

  146. hello annie, i am a us servicemember and looking to put two PIONEER TS-W309D4 1400W Woofers 12″ Dual 4 Ohm Champion Car Audio Subwoofers. i want to know what size pioneer amplifier i will need to power them. thank you in advance for your assistance.

    • Hi Kay Jay,
      First off, thank you for your service. At our shop, we give all of our 1st responders and US service members/veterans a discount as well as a great big thank you. If you want two of those subs, do not buy the dual 4 ohm version, buy the TS-309S4 (single voice coil 4 ohm). You will want to be able to hook these up to a mono amp and the mono amp will need to see 2 ohms. So with two single voice coil 4 ohm subs, you can wire them in parallel (positive to positive, negative to negative) and the amp will see 2 ohms.

      Here’s the only problem with Pioneer’s amp lineup. They don’t have enough powerful amps for the subs they sell. Even my Pioneer rep doesn’t understand why they do this. Pioneer doesn’t have an amp that gives you 800 watts RMS at 2 ohms, which is what you need. I do like those Champion series subs though, they are very nice. I would recommend something like Kenwood’s KAC-9105D which will give you 900 watts RMS at 2 ohms. It’s also an excellent value amp, typically around $250. The other recommendation I can give you, is build the box for the subs to the manufacturer’s specs. It will sound awesome that way. Sealed will be tighter, cleaner, punchier. Ported will give you more output at certain frequencies, but won’t be as tight and clean. Thanks again and enjoy the subs!

  147. Hello Annie, and thanks for the info so far…I’m driving a 1995 Buick Riviera, and I have a Pioneer Head Unit with two 12’s…the gain 3/4 and bass boost were turned up to half, and the last subs i had were,2 Aphasonik PSW612E 700w and 2 DB Drive 1800w, both sets were 4ohm, wired to 2ohm

    • Alright, I think your problem is you were under powering the subs you had before. The db’s wanted 900 watts RMS so if you had two of them running to the amp at a 2 ohm load, your amp was putting out half the power you needed.

      Same thing with the alphasonic subs, they’re 700 watts RMS, meaning you needed to give them 1400 RMS and you only had 950.

      Have you read my post on “why did my speakers blow”? It’s a lack of power that kills them. You run out of power and the amp starts clipping and playing a distorted signal. The distorted signal is unnatural and will cause the sub’s voice coil to heat up and break down, thus blowing your subs.

      The cvr’s are a better power match around 400 watts RMS each. So you’ll be less likely to damage them as long as you tune it properly.

      It sounds like you like it loud. Having the right box will make all the difference in the world. I would buy them with the manufacturers ported enclosure, the DCVR12 2ohm model.

      This way you have optimum performance and output. Make sure your crossover point is around 60-80 hertz. Gains no more than 3/4.

      On the head unit: bass boost off, bass flat (use sub level gain to adjust bass) crossovers on interiors HPF 80 hertz and up.

      Crank up head unit volume to point distortion and back it down just below distortion. Using a variety of music, start with the sub amp gain down and slowly bring up to point of distortion, then back it down.

      The idea is even at peak volume you have no distortion. Bass boost is okay on the amp, it boosts one particular frequency, but try it with it off first.

      Good luck!

  148. My friend is putting a 8 ohm svc 800w peak on a 1 ohm stable amp 1200w peak I say this is a bad plan is it?

    • Hi Jane,
      It won’t hurt the amp. Basically amplifiers have different power outputs with different impedances. I’m surprised the amp claims it’s stable at 1 ohm, most amplifiers are not. Each time you drop your impedance (like from 8 ohm to 4 ohm to 2 ohm to 1 ohm), the amplifier will let out more power, but with less control. Always look at the RMS ratings on both amps and speakers. Peak is entirely unrealistic and it’s just there to grab your attention. The manufacturers can test their amps for peak ratings while playing a frequency that is so high pitched it would barely be audible to the human ears. But what good is 1200 watts when you’re playing one frequency barely audible to the human ear? So RMS is like the every day real world application rating. Peak ratings are typically a 3rd of what the real RMS is.

      So chances are the sub is rated around 265 watts RMS and the amp is rated around 400 watts RMS at 1 ohm. So if we increase that impedance, that means the amp will put out less power. Probably more like 300 watts at 2 ohms, 200 watts at 4 ohms, maybe 100 watts at 8 ohms.

      So it won’t hurt the amp, you might hurt the sub by under powering it. 8 ohm single voice coil is a very uncommon impedance these days. It used to be popular when 2 channel amps were popular. So people would buy 2 of them, wiring them in parallel, which cuts the impedance in half to 4 ohms. And then when they bridged the amp, the amp would see 2 ohms. That was a pretty standard thing in the industry 10 years ago.

      As cars have gotten smaller and space has become more limited, companies have swapped inefficient class A/B amplifiers for very efficient, small Class D amps. Class D amps want to see a 2 ohm load. So most people buy either a single 2 ohm voice coil, or a dual 4 ohm voice coil (can be paralleled down to 2 ohms) or if they’re doing two subs, they buy two single voice coil 4 ohm subs and parallel them or buy two dual voice coil 2 ohm subs (which they would series, then parallel).

      So it will work, it won’t hurt the amp, but it’s really not the right combination of equipment and may damage the sub by under powering it.

  149. So i have a kenwood mono block 2 ohm 1000w amp, im looking for 2 shallow 10″ subs, ive been looking at the Mb quart shallow 10’s and they seem about right in the wattage department, any advice or verification that this combo would work , im not sure what the model number of my amp is but like i said its 1000w monoblock 2 ohm , these subs are 4 ohmss, thanks

    • I don’t like the MB Quart, I had a girl here last night that came in with one and it sounded like ass. It was in the wrong enclosure too though. Of the flat subs I’ve dealt with, Pioneer, Kenwood, JL and Alpine, I have to say the JL 13″ is the best sounding one I”ve heard. They’re rated around 600 watts RMS and are 3 ohm. They do have a new line of W3 flat 10’s and 12’s coming out which will be around 400 watts RMS and $299. Second option would be the Alpine Type R flat 10″ rated at 600 watts RMS for $450. That sub also sounds pretty good, I’ve sold quite a few. The 13″ will hit lower frequencies because of the larger surface area, but the 10″ will be tighter and punchier.

      I liked the JL, actually had 2 in my car at one point. My husband prefers the tighter sound in the Alpine 10″. That will be a personal decision based on what is more important to you, deep and rumbling or tight and punchy. If you want to do 2 of them, you’re better off with the Alpine because it’s a single voice coil 4 ohm, so if you do two wired in parallel, your amp will put out 1000 watts (assuming that rating was RMS?) at 2 ohms.

      I hope that helps!

  150. PLEASE help lol im a girl i nothing about stereos other than paying the guy at bestbuy.i have a 500 watt alpine mono amp i believe with an alpine 10″ or 12″ sub.everything has been fine for over a year/half now when i pump by bass it cuts out around 6 on the volume.I have to turn the car off then on to get the sound back in the sub,repeat.I dont think its any wires or setup issues because why has it happened now? it is cold at the moment outside if it matters.the blue light is on the amp but i noticed a slight dim of the light with the volume low(maybe it is the amp:( )either way i neep help or else ill just be told to buy a new amp and sub like the last time my sub died.the guys at the store set it up so the amp wasnt too strong(because after a week i blew the first speaker they put in)i dont trust kids in bestbuy but i dont really have an option

    • Best buy, that’s your first problem. Don’t go back there. You know how they hire their installers? They take a computer test. That’s right, they don’t even evaluate their ability to work on a car before they hire them. So please try to find a local independent shop near by, rather than a Big Box store. Chances are they either sold you the wrong equipment or they did a bad install. Either one is quite common unfortunately. We have a Best Buy less than a mile away from us and we’re constantly fixing their work.

      Next time the bass cuts out, go back to the amp and carefully feel it, see if it’s hot to the touch. If it’s extremely hot, then you may have damaged the subwoofer. When this happens, the amp sees too low of an impedance and shuts off. The other possibility is if they sold you a Dual 2 Ohm sub and wired it in parallel, that would bring the impedance down to 1 ohm. I don’t think that’s the case though as it probably would have been like that from the get go.

      Most likely you blew your sub. One way to check is with your system off, press directly in the center of the speaker with your hand evenly spaces across the front of it. If it’s stiff or rigid, your feeling damaged voice coil. The voice coil is a copper coil that is inside the structure of the subwoofer. When subs receive a distorted signal, the voice coil heats up. Over time it damages the coil. The coil can then start to loosen up and unravel. When this happens it will either stop playing completely or play intermittently, that could be the cause of the cutting out.

      If you’re noticing the light on the Alpine dimming, it may be the source they got for your remote turn on lead. That’s the thin blue wire that goes to the amp and tells the amp to turn on with the key and turn off with the key. If you have an aftermarket stereo, that wire should be run to the back of your head unit. If you have a stock stereo, they should have run that wire straight to an accessory power source.

      If the light on the amp goes out or dims that means it’s not getting 12 volts and the amp would then cut out, so your sub would stop playing. This problem you’re having may be as simple as your battery in your car is weak. A car will still run with around 10 volts, but that’s too low for the amplifier to turn on. Do yourself a favor and stop by an Autozone if you have one near you, they can do a quick battery test and tell you if your car battery needs to be replaced and if you do need a new one, they sell them right there. If you don’t have an autozone near you, you can probably have this done at Sears or any automotive repair shop. Have that checked first and let me know how it turns out!

  151. Or maybee you can suggest a head unit for me? I dont need bluetooth,I just want to use my mp3 songs and fm radio.Im going to be using the alpine 5 chan. MRX-V60 amp you suggested with (4)6.5″ 4way door speakers(pioneer) and the (1)10″ kicker in the trunk.
    Unless you think i should go with a different brand door speaker that wants 50 watts RMS 4ohm?
    So whats a good head unit for me? & are those pioneers a good idea?

  152. Hey Annie, I got an mp3 walkman that im going to use with the new tunner deck that i get but my mp3 doesnt have a fast forward to it.This can suck with alot of my progressive club anthem style music that just sucks untill about the 1:30 mark into the track.Will I be able to fast forward thru the the tunner with the song coming from my mp3 player connected?(idk prob not huh?)What should i do about that? Does the tunner have mp3 downloadable memory i could transfer into it for this?(or do some tuners have this capability?) SONY CDX-GT650UI is the tunner that im considering as it has alot of the qualities that you pointed out in your blog such as the front,back hi/lo filters. But that brings up my next question that if im going to be running all 5 of my speakers with the 5 chan. alpine that you showed me,will the tunners hi/lo pass be useless if im coming of of my amp?

    • Hi,
      You will be able to fast forward/rewind when you have your ipod/mp3 player connected through USB on a new stereo. That Sony will get the job done, but it only has 2 Volt preouts. You’ll get better sound quality with 4 volt. You can check out Kenwood’s KDC-X396 for a cost effective deck that has all those features we talked about.

      You would leave the crossovers off on the head unit and use the crossovers on the amp. I also don’t think 4 ways are necessary at all. I’d rather see you go with something like Alpine Type S speakers if you’re looking for a nice sounding, cost effective 6.5″ coax speaker. Speakers are not Pioneer’s strength.

  153. I have the audiopipe 15001D…@ 4ohms 600w, @ 2ohms 950w, and @1 ohm 1500w….my problem is i don’t know what size subs to get, shops have been selling me the wrong size, and i’ve been frying subs, i shouldn’t have to buy subs every summer….will the Kicker CVR’s be good enough?….can you suggest a good wattage/RMS…HELP!!!

    • What’s going on Chemaco? You shouldn’t be going through subs each year. That will happen because either the shop is selling you the wrong stuff or whoever installed it doesn’t have the amp tuned properly. Having said that, can you tell me what subs you’ve had and how everything is installed? Like do you have this going off a stock head unit, if so, what car? Do you have an aftermarket head unit, can you tell me which one please? And do you think you can also tell me where the settings are on the amp?

      Things like crossover frequency, how far up the gain is (1/2 way? 3/4?), is bass boost on? Things like that. The more information the better!

      Having said that, you’re going to want to look for subs that can handle around 500 watts RMS. Depending on what kind of car it is, it sounds like you’ve been doing 2 -12’s. As much as I love JL, I think the Alpine’s can handle more abuse. So I would check out the Alpine Type R’s. You would only slightly be underpowering it and that’s okay as long as everything is tuned properly. Have you seen my post on sub amp tuning?

      The idea, is even at max volume, there is no distorted signal going to the sub. All head units pre-amp outputs will clip at a certain volume. So for example, never put the aftermarket head unit past like 31/32 if the head unit volume goes to 35. Whatever signal is coming off the head unit (or hi to lo convertor if you’re using a stock deck) is going to the amp. So think about it, if your signal is distorted going to the amp, your amp reproduces that and will end up damaging the sub.

      Shame on the shop for not helping you out, it’s their duty to HELP their customers. Check out the post on sub amp tuning and get back to me with specifics and I’ll get you more details. And if you do decide to go with two Alpine Type R’s you must but the Dual 2 ohm version. Don’t try to run anything at 1 ohms. It’s not good for the amp, heats up like crazy and sounds like crap. It’ll be loud, but it won’t be clean and won’t play for a very long time. Thanks for checking out the site, I’ll talk to you soon.

  154. Sweet! looks like a good amp for the money.Its only 50 bucks more than the two smaller amps I was looking at but will probably be cheaper by the time I bought the other wutya call its i would need for 2 amps?.lol..
    You can tell i have never done this!
    I have 1 good question that will set me straight here:
    Am i going to get more sound out of
    (2)6.5″ 3ways that(2ohm) Rms=60watts
    (4)6.5″ 3ways that(4ohm) Rms=30watts
    Is there a big difference between those two options or would i just be pissing in the wind instead of doing whats easier to wire?
    Oh and if your wondering what im working on,its an 01′ VW jetta Glx that i bought for $600,so yeah,theres just an empty space where a radio should be as the previous owner relocated his sound equipment after he blew the engine..lol
    So should i go with (2)60 watt or (4)30 watt <pushing all of them 20% above their Rms

    • Hi, so you said you had a 2001 Jetta right? Those cars come with components front and rear, or 8 speakers total. You should really look for a set of component speakers rated around 60 watts RMS, assuming you go with the 5 channel Alpine amp or similar.

      To answer your question regarding quantity speakers and various impedance, you would probably have more output with the 4 – 4 ohm speakers. If you had 2 speakers rated at 60 watts at 2 ohms, and let’s assume you have a class a/b amp 4 channel amp that is stable at 2 ohms and pushed out 60×4, you’d only be using 1/2 the amp. So you’d probably only have front sound stage.

      The 4 speakers (assuming installing 2 in front, 2 in the rear) would give you some rear fill and definitely give you the impression of more sound. Also, this might sound weird, but speakers that handle less power tend to run more efficiently. For example, if you were to play a pair of speakers rated at 50 watts RMS off deck power (typically about 18×4 RMS), they will most likely play louder than a set that are rated at 150 watts RMS. The higher power handling ones really need that extra power to play to their best.

      So assuming you’d only be amplifying the 2 front speakers rated at 60 watts, vs having 4 speakers with a lower efficiency, I still think the 4 (4 ohm) speakers would sound louder.

  155. Crazy me,heres the equipment im thinking about using
    JbL Gto 638(3way) with a Fosgate R150-2 amp
    Kicker C10-4(woofer) with a Fosgate P200-2
    Will that route work?

  156. Hi Annie,
    You are awesome! I found this post just before i was about to buy all the wrong stuff.Now i think im going to try 2 jbl 6.5″ 3way rear door speakers and 1 kicker 10″ in the trunk.
    I didnt know anything about ohms but thanks to this i think i have it now?
    Gonna use 2 fosgate amps
    The amp for the door speakers pushes 75 watts x 2ch at 2ohms and the speakers rms is 60 watts with 2ohm impedance
    The amp for the woofer can be bridged to 200 watts 4ohms and the 10’s rms is 175 watts with a single 4ohm impedance(< will that work with the amp bridged)
    Is there any important knowledge of how to run a 2 amp system correctly? I would love to see your post on that!

    • Hi Dusty,
      Thanks for the props, I’m glad you found the site informative! If you’re going to buy 1 kicker single voice coil 4 ohm sub, then yes you can safely bridge the amp to power it. And it looks like you’ve got your RMS power ratings matched pretty well from speakers/subs to your amps. One thought though, instead of buying 2 different amps, have you thought about a 5 channel? Maybe an MRX-V60?

  157. so each one of my speakers being dual two ohm have two + and two -? so wire the speaker to itself then use open + and- to run to amp? So each sub’s (+, -) wire going into amp will have its own (+,-). Not bridged rite(connected), or that would have me at half ohm, which is bad? Is there a link or site that has a visual diagram, still confused

    • hmm, let me think of the best way to show you series. Check out this Alpine owner’s manual and go to page 3, example # 4. This shows how to wire 2 dual 2 ohm subwoofers to a mono amp. It shows them both being wired in series, then parallel. The Alpine voice coils are right next to each other, but your sub’s voice coils might be on opposite sides of the magnet. It’s still the same idea.

      On each sub, you will link positive from voice coil # 1 to the negative of voice coil #2. With the negative from voice coil #1 you’ll go to the negative on the amp, with the positive of voice coil #2 you’ll go to the positive on the amp. And you’ll do that with both subs. I hope the diagram helps!

  158. My amp is 1000 x1 @ 2 ohm, I just bought two dual 2 ohm fifteens with 400 rms each. What is the best way to wire them . Need details please

    • Hi Jason,
      The best thing to do is wire each sub in series. Connecting one positive from one voice coil to the negative of the other voice coil on each sub kind of like this. Voice coil #1 + -______+ – Voice coil #2. Using the open positive and negative terminals on your sub to go to the positive and negative on the amp. By wiring each sub in series you are bringing the impedance up to 4 ohm. By connecting both subs at the mono amp in the same manner (both open positives on the subwoofer to the amp’s positive, both open negatives on the subwoofer to the amp’s negative), you are then wiring in parallel. Bringing the impedance back down to 2 ohms. So your amp will put out 1000 watts RMS at 2 ohms.

  159. How do I connect 2 12 CVS on a 100.1 kicker amp

    • Hi Sam,
      Really, wired in series and they’re cutting off? Single voice coil 4 ohm? Dual voice coil 4 ohm? what’s the exact model of your kicker subs? And what gauge wire are you using? And you mean the 1000 watt Kicker amp, right? And what head unit are you using?

  160. Hey Annie I have 2 12 kicker VCR and a 100.1 kicker amp and I connected the cvrs in Series in a sealed box and the amp turns off and on when I raise the valume on the stereo

  161. i have a pyramid 5000 watt amplifier and two 12″ pioneer 1300 watt subs. i dont get the hit power that i desire and i want to know how i could hook it up to fix the problem, i have a positive wire that is 8 gauge that runs into a fuse block and a 4 gauge wire running from the block to the amplifier. and the ground is a 4 gauge wire also. i have good connections on both wires in connections to the frame and battery. however, the amplifier is a two channel amp. i bridged it and i still dont get the hit power it should have. if i increase the size of the wire from the amplifier to the speakers will it hit harder? and if so is there another way i could hook this system up for a better sound with more power?

    • Hi John, I need more info to tell you exactly the problem and if you really have the right combination of equipment. For starters, you got your gauges all wrong. Check out my post on picking the right size wire for your amp. My estimate based on its 2500 watt peak rating (don’t know where they’re getting that 5000 watt rating)
      Is your amp is probably arpund 1000 watts RMS so your amp needs at least a 4 gauge wire run straight from the battery back to the amp, 8 gauge is starving the amp for power. It doesn’t matter if you have 4 gauge from a block if 8 gauge is what’s coming from the battery. 8 gauge is only good for up to 500 watts RMS.

      Give me exact model #s and fuse sizes on the amp and I’ll tell you what you gotta do to get it to hit harder.

      Also what kind of car? Head unit? And box?

  162. Hello annie. I have a sony xm-gtx 1302 2/1 channel amp. already installed in my jeep. I want to purchase 2 jbl P1222 12″ subs with dual 2ohm voice coils. How would i wire these up to get the best sound? Thanks

    • Hi Patrick, unfortunately that amp will not be enough power for two of those subs and that would be the wrong impedance to buy even if the amp was enough power for both.

      Your amp puts out about 340 warts RMS when bridged to a 4 ohm load. Those subs can handle 400 watts RMS.

      You could buy one of those subs however. If you did, you would wire the sub in series connecting one positive from one voice coil to the negative of the other voice coil. With the open positive you would go to the amps left positive. With the open negative terminal on the sub you would go to the amp’s right negative.

      The amp would see 4 ohms bridged and put out 340 watts RMS.

  163. Hi Annie!
    Few questions for ya….first I wanted to make sure that i have wired up my current configuration correctly. I have a Kicker 12″ L3 DVC 2ohm sub along with a mono ZX500.1 (birth sheet stating 596RMS) I have the sub wired from Negative to negative and positive to positive on the sub, now the voice coils are indicated with dots on the terminals so one coil has dots on the negative and positive terminals and the other none. So the leads from the amp are going to the two terminals with dots. second question is I have a 10″ CVR DVC 4ohm….big question is can I integrate the CVR into my current system????

    • Bad news Tim, that’s the wrong impedance for that amp. The way you have it wired right now is in parallel which cuts the impedance in half. So your amp is seeing a 1 ohm load. Too low and unstable for that amp.

      Problem is if you wire it in series you will have a 4 ohm load and your amp will only put out 250 watts RMS at that impedance. And you need 500 RMS. You would either have to get the dual 4 ohm version and wire it in parallel giving you a 2 ohm load or buy a mono amp that will put out 500 watts RMS at 4 ohms.

      And forget the other sub. If you are wiring up more than one sub, they need to be the same model and impedance and have the same amp powering it. Otherwise you have different efficiencies with the different subs resulting in one playing at a different pace than the other which can end putting certain frequencies out of phase and canceling out those frequencies.

      You could just hook up that other sub if you wanted as that one is a dual 4 ohm and could be wired in parallel.

  164. Hey Annie,
    I had thebspeaker terminals mixed up. It is labeled only “speakers” with – – + +. Also on the other side ofmthe amp there is a switch labeled “phase”. It can be set at either 0 or 180. Didn’t know if thisnwould help. Thanks

    • Got it, so it is a mono amp. Since your subs are dual 4 ohm, the only safe way to hook that up is to series each sub. So you’ll connect one positive to one negative off each voice coil and use the open positive and negative from each voice coil to go to the amps terminals.

      By wiring the subs in series, each acts like an 8 ohm sub. By hooking both of them up to the mono amp you are then wiring them in parallel. That means the amp sees 4 ohms and it will run stable.

      Based on an 80 amp fuse, the amp is probably putting out about 800-1000 watts RMS.

      Based on the power handling of your subs, that should be more than enough power. Check out my post on subwoofer amp tuning for more information on setting up the amp.

      Phase is referring to positive and negative. You want to wire your subs in correct phase. Sometimes, depending on the acoustics of the car, the interior shape can throw certain frequencies out of phase which ends up canceling out or diminishing that frequency from your audio system.

      You can try switching it and see if it sounds better, but chances are, as long as you have all your other speakers wired correctly in the interior, you won’t need to switch the phase.

  165. Hey Annie. There are 2 40 amp fuses on the MA2000D. It is a 2 channel amp. But the terminals for the speakers are – + + -. Is this normal for a 2 channel amp? I am wondering if this could be a mono amp. I have tried to contact the business that sold the MA2000D, but they do not have specifications on the amp. Is there a way to find out the impedence of the amp? The memphis 10″ subs are PR10D4V2. 250 rms/500 peak. Thanks.

    • Hi, I just need a tiny bit more info. Normally if it’s mono there would be ++ –. 2 channel is usually labeled left and right and usually laid out +- +-. If it says left and right then you know it’s a 2 channel. Let me know because that will determine how you should wire your subs.

  166. is there any benifit of running subs stereo (im using a 2 channel amp) over bridged mono. is there a big difference