Coming soon will be information on subwoofers organized by power handling, sound quality, output and price. The Car Stereo Chick is here to help you find the best sub for your application and budget.
6 Comments
hatchboom
Hay Annie,
I have a 12″ Realm LFT-D4 sub (400W rms/800W max). From my understanding this sub performs great in a sealed box right? I’m on my 3rd bass set up right now (never had high end stuff, always being resourceful for I am an audio rat Lol).
I have my existing bass set up in my 97 Accord wagon (hatch BOOM!)…
5.5 cube 32Hz enclosure (for just 1 single 12″ aha) made from my friend Mauco Whitehorse (Whitehorse Customs). Made my cheapy 12″ Visonik 600 watt sub sound like 2 15’s. I was using a cheapy 1000 watt Crunch ground pounder (really 250 watts rms Lol). Btw, This was on regular civilian set up Lol (power wire to my battery under the hood). I didn’t up the alternator or add extra battery’s etc … I’ve now sold that sub & amp …
I plan on throwing that Realm sub in that 5.5 enclosure. That sub wasn’t my 1st choice but I got it for free from a friend.
Is it gonna sound like poop?
I’m still searching for a bang for your buck amp that will justify that sub & enclosure as I type …
Hi,
I don’t know much about Realm audio, but I can tell you an enclosure that works well for one sub usually doesn’t work the same way for another. So check the manufacturer’s recommendations for enclosure size/tuning options. Besides considering power and price when it comes to amps, you also need to consider efficiency and sound quality. I’d say good back for your buck that’s reliable and good quality components would be Alpine’s MRX series or JL’S JX series.
Hi, just found your site whilst trying to get a grasp on low pass filters.
Forgive my naivete, as I’m only new to the enhancement of car audio. And I could quite likely be purchasing items, that are completely incompatible, with one another. I’m flying blind on the belated dreams of my long passed youth.
My endeavour starts with… I guess… my iPhone. I recently purchased Pioneer’s AppRadio2, and have some amp (Boss 4.600), on its way. Today I received my Pioneer TS-WX304T, 1300w sub woofer, and I find myself laughing, each time I look over toward the package. This sub really looks like over-kill to me. What a beast of a speaker. It’s a tube sub, which needs strapping down.
Anyway, within its literature, it refers to a recommendation of an 80Hz LPF.
In reading your article, am I to understand that the sub is automatically low-pass-filtered, and set, by its connection to the Amp?
This may constitute as being the first question of many to follow.
Hi Shane,
The setting needs to changed on your amp. I’m assuming you’re using the 4 channel amp to run your front speakers and then bridge the rear two channels to the sub. I couldn’t find anything online about that amp, but most 4 channel amps will allow you to do this. You want to connect your front speakers to the front channels on the amp, left and right. Then you want to bridge the rear two channels to the sub. This is done differently from amp to amp, so look at the owner’s guide for the correct method for this amp. Many times it’s often marked on the amp terminals itself which channels to use for bridged. Typically it’s using left positive and right negative off the front or rear channels of the amp.
Once you have your front speakers wired to the front channel and your sub wired bridged to the rear channels you need to be able to change the crossovers for the front and the rear. You want your front channels running on HPF around 80 hertz and your rear (bridged to the sub) running on LPF at 80 hertz. Many amps have selectable crossover settings LPF, Full or HPF and hopefully your amp has this as a separate adjustment for both front and rear channels. If not, you really should buy a different amp. If you don’t see a dial to adjust the crossover (usually labeled around 40 – 200 hertz) then chances are the frequency is already pre-selected and the only thing you can change is whether you’re running high pass filter, full range or low pass filter. Good luck!
6 Comments
Hay Annie,
I have a 12″ Realm LFT-D4 sub (400W rms/800W max). From my understanding this sub performs great in a sealed box right? I’m on my 3rd bass set up right now (never had high end stuff, always being resourceful for I am an audio rat Lol).
I have my existing bass set up in my 97 Accord wagon (hatch BOOM!)…
5.5 cube 32Hz enclosure (for just 1 single 12″ aha) made from my friend Mauco Whitehorse (Whitehorse Customs). Made my cheapy 12″ Visonik 600 watt sub sound like 2 15’s. I was using a cheapy 1000 watt Crunch ground pounder (really 250 watts rms Lol). Btw, This was on regular civilian set up Lol (power wire to my battery under the hood). I didn’t up the alternator or add extra battery’s etc … I’ve now sold that sub & amp …
I plan on throwing that Realm sub in that 5.5 enclosure. That sub wasn’t my 1st choice but I got it for free from a friend.
Is it gonna sound like poop?
I’m still searching for a bang for your buck amp that will justify that sub & enclosure as I type …
Any thoughts? Questions?
Thanks
+hatchboom
Hi,
I don’t know much about Realm audio, but I can tell you an enclosure that works well for one sub usually doesn’t work the same way for another. So check the manufacturer’s recommendations for enclosure size/tuning options. Besides considering power and price when it comes to amps, you also need to consider efficiency and sound quality. I’d say good back for your buck that’s reliable and good quality components would be Alpine’s MRX series or JL’S JX series.
Hi, just found your site whilst trying to get a grasp on low pass filters.
Forgive my naivete, as I’m only new to the enhancement of car audio. And I could quite likely be purchasing items, that are completely incompatible, with one another. I’m flying blind on the belated dreams of my long passed youth.
My endeavour starts with… I guess… my iPhone. I recently purchased Pioneer’s AppRadio2, and have some amp (Boss 4.600), on its way. Today I received my Pioneer TS-WX304T, 1300w sub woofer, and I find myself laughing, each time I look over toward the package. This sub really looks like over-kill to me. What a beast of a speaker. It’s a tube sub, which needs strapping down.
Anyway, within its literature, it refers to a recommendation of an 80Hz LPF.
In reading your article, am I to understand that the sub is automatically low-pass-filtered, and set, by its connection to the Amp?
This may constitute as being the first question of many to follow.
Hope to hear from you soon.
Cheers Shane
Hi Shane,
The setting needs to changed on your amp. I’m assuming you’re using the 4 channel amp to run your front speakers and then bridge the rear two channels to the sub. I couldn’t find anything online about that amp, but most 4 channel amps will allow you to do this. You want to connect your front speakers to the front channels on the amp, left and right. Then you want to bridge the rear two channels to the sub. This is done differently from amp to amp, so look at the owner’s guide for the correct method for this amp. Many times it’s often marked on the amp terminals itself which channels to use for bridged. Typically it’s using left positive and right negative off the front or rear channels of the amp.
Once you have your front speakers wired to the front channel and your sub wired bridged to the rear channels you need to be able to change the crossovers for the front and the rear. You want your front channels running on HPF around 80 hertz and your rear (bridged to the sub) running on LPF at 80 hertz. Many amps have selectable crossover settings LPF, Full or HPF and hopefully your amp has this as a separate adjustment for both front and rear channels. If not, you really should buy a different amp. If you don’t see a dial to adjust the crossover (usually labeled around 40 – 200 hertz) then chances are the frequency is already pre-selected and the only thing you can change is whether you’re running high pass filter, full range or low pass filter. Good luck!
I have a rockford punch 200×2 im thinking 8 ohmpunch 1 twelves what would you say is a good pair of speakers for this amp?
Hi Dave,
I’d say that’s a perfect match. Run them in parallel, then bridge the amp and you’ve got a pretty good match.
Annie